The Plant Company grows and sells thousands of Lavender plants throughout NZ. We pride ourselves on producing high quality plants and hearing the joy from our customers when they receive them. Explore our offering and the expert advice articles which have been produced by experienced gardeners and nurseryman. These articles cover key questions about growing Lavender plants successfully.
Why? Our plants are in high demand due to our reputation for delivering high quality products at competitive prices. We may have these in production or be able to source these for you, so please feel free to contact us and our fantastic team will respond to your enquiry. Alternatively, we have a world class plant finder tool that you can use to help find alternative options.
Planting Lavender and getting them to grow well is generally easy when you get a few of the basics right. This involves planting them in the right soil type, choosing the most ideal planting position, selecting the best variety, and ensuring the plants have the essentials to thrive. The Plant Company has the right advice to ensure success whether you are growing Lavender as a standalone plant or a Lavender hedge.
Choose a full sun position with good drainage and moderate shelter for your Lavender plant. The hole should be dug to at least 50-75% deeper and wider than the container the plant is currently growing in. A planting spade makes the hole digging a lot easier. The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread that on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring.
Remove the plant from the container it is growing in by either pulling it free or by cutting the bag. We recommend cutting the bag, especially for larger grade plants, to minimise any chance of damaging the roots. Once out, you need to assess the roots before progressing. If they are not all bound up, and haven’t been growing in a circle within the container, place the plant in the hole without removing any of the growing media or cutting the roots. You can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. If, however, the roots have been circling the inside of the pot or they look totally root bound, simply cut through those very outer roots on either side. You don’t need to be any more aggressive than this or remove any of the growing media. You can try and tease the roots apart, but this generally breaks them which is why we cut them.
Now place the plant in the hole and make sure it is level with the soil surface before filling in around it. If it is above the soil surface, dig more out. If it is below, put in more soil and retest the level. Once the plant is set level with the soil surface, add more soil gradually and firm it around the plant using gentle pressure as you go. Scatter shrub fertiliser across the soil surface after planting and the give the plant a good watering.
A full sun position with good drainage is essential for getting the best results with Lavenders. On poorly drained sites or with over-watering they tend to become stunted, sickly looking, and may even die. In partial shade conditions they can be become “leggy” and flowering is often reduced. The position should also be moderately sheltered so fresh growth is not damaged by wind, and this will help produce a better shaped plant overall. They are generally regarded as frost tolerant, though alpine environments or areas that experience very heavy frosts should be avoided. High humidity climates can cause issues for Lavender, particularly if there is no airflow, and these situations should also be avoided.
Lavender will grow in coastal areas but they should not be exposed to direct sea spray or coastal winds. Additionally, saline soils will prove detrimental to plants and can result in their death. On this basis, planting some 50 m away from the coastline will generally be okay. However, they will require the soil to be well-prepared with compost, shelter established, and regularly watered while they are establishing. This is especially important as coastal soils are predominantly sand.
Lavenders are very easy to grow, but you need to have the basics right. Choose a sunny spot with good drainage. The soil should be well prepared with organic matter added from either compost or sheep pellets mixed in. Feeding your Lavender plants in spring with shrub fertiliser will replenish nutrients and keep them fed for 12-months. Prune your Lavender each autumn with secateurs to maintain their shape and encourage fresh growth in spring. They should also be watered regularly during dry periods to keep them flourishing.
Placing mulch around Lavenders helps keep the soil moist and significantly reduces weeds. The Plant Company recommends an organic mulch is used as this breaks down over time to provide nutrients and improves the soil. It is also better for the environment than the plastic-based alternatives. Whatever type of mulch is used, it needs to be free draining so the soil can “breathe” and allow water to penetrate quickly and easily. Heavy rates of lawn clippings are therefore not a good option as they hold too much moisture. The Plant Company has two very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. It breaks down to become part of the soil within two years. The second is the black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. In both instances we recommend stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top of the mulch for aesthetic purposes.
Compost is not considered an effective mulch as weeds germinate easily and it is only short lasting. It is, however, a very good method of adding organic matter to the soil and should be applied before the mulch is put down.
Choose a full sun position with good drainage and moderate shelter for your Lavender plant. The hole should be dug to at least 50-75% deeper and wider than the container the plant is currently growing in. A good planting spade makes this task a lot easier. The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread shrub fertiliser on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring.
We have specific sections in our guide on:
* What Fertiliser To Use On Lavenders
* How To Mulch Around Lavenders
* Pest And Disease Management For Lavenders
Lavenders are best planted from mid-autumn until late spring. During this time, they can cope with the stresses associated with planting (root damage mainly) more easily than if they have to also cope with heat and moisture stress as well. They can be planted in summer provided they are well-watered and the roots have plenty of growing media attached when planted. If watering is a challenge, The Plant Company advises late-autumn through until early-spring for planting.
A plant that is 15 cm tall growing in a two-litre container should be 40 cm tall and the same wide after 12-months. The amount of growth after that will depend on how well it is looked after, whether it was pruned, and how aggressive that pruning was. The Plant Company recommends pruning in autumn each year to keep the plants from getting too woody and to maintain a tidy form. All this said, the growth rate and final size is also dependent on the variety being grown. Details on this are provided with each of Lavender varieties we have available.
Lavenders grown in a pot look amazing when done properly. Choose a pot that is no more than twice the size of what the Lavender is currently growing in and that has plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the bottom of the pot to about 1/3 of the way up with potting mix. Do not use soil or compost when growing plants in a container and do not add fertiliser. The Plant Company potting mix has all the nutrients required to sustain the plant for the next 12-months.
When potting up, assess the roots before progressing. If they are not all bound up, and haven’t been growing in a circle within their original container, place the plant in the new pot without removing any of the growing media or cutting the roots. You can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. If, however, the roots have been circling the inside of the pot or they look root bound, simply cut through the very outer roots on either side. You don’t need to be any more aggressive than this or remove any of the growing media. You can try and tease the roots apart, but this generally breaks them which is why we cut them. Add more potting mix and firm this around the plant using gentle pressure, then water well. They should be watered twice a week during hot weather and weekly or fortnightly during cooler periods.
Any Lavender plant can be grown indoors when they are young. However, most varieties will quickly get too big and need to be placed outdoors. At the same time, they require full sun conditions and can become leggy with the lower light levels indoors. Some varieties such as Ghostly Princess and The Princess make for fantastic indoor plants before they get too big. Feel free to explore our range of Lavenders as we have many options.
The Plant Company advises that Lavenders should be considered a short-term indoor plant before being planted outside. Refer to the section on how to grow Lavenders in pots for great information on potting them up correctly and also the section on pruning Lavenders.
Providing the best fertiliser for Lavender plants is important to ensure they thrive. The correct fertiliser depends on whether the plant is grown in a pot or in soil, and getting this wrong can be disastrous for your plants. Our articles provide the best advice about Lavender fertiliser so you can achieve the amazing results you are after.
Lavenders are showy plants that require feeding to keep them flowering and looking amazing. A lot of articles have all sorts of advice on this subject which often requires multiple applications so you use more of their fertiliser. The Plant Company prefers to take a simpler and more environmentally responsible approach. The Plant Company shrub fertiliser has been specifically blended and developed to give plants an initial boost and then sustained nutrition for 12 months. This fertiliser ensures that nutrients remain in the soil around the plant rather than being lost through the soil profile to where the plant cannot reach it. This also applies to plants grown on sandy soils.
The Plant Company recommends that shrub fertiliser is applied to the soil surface in spring just as the plants start their new growth. We also advise that no fertiliser is placed in the hole at planting, but rather spread around the soil surface so it can wash through to the roots as it releases.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if shrub fertiliser has been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and encourages more flower buds to form as the nutrition is right where the plant needs it.
Lavenders are showy plants that require feeding to keep them flowering and looking amazing. A lot of articles have all sorts of advice on this subject which often requires multiple applications so you use more of their fertiliser. The Plant Company prefers to take a simpler and more environmentally responsible approach. A suitable organic option is The Plant Company’s organic fertiliser which is applied in spring and again in autumn and will keep them well fed. You can safely apply generous amounts of this fertiliser to plants without risk of injuring the plants. More details about this fertiliser are provided with the product.
Lavenders grown in containers require different fertiliser to those grown outdoors in soil. In this instance the correct fertilisers to use are either the container plant fertiliser or fertiliser tablets. Each of these will provide safe, sustained, and complete nutrition to the plant for the next 12-months. Using other types of fertiliser can be detrimental to the plant and may result in plant death.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if container plant fertiliser or fertiliser tablets have been used. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and encourages more flower buds to form as the nutrition is right where the plant needs it.
The soil pH refers to how acid of alkaline the soil is. Lavenders prefer a soil pH within the range of 6.5 to 7.4 which means they like a neutral soil. As the pH of the soil moves away from this optimum range, the nutrients the plant is taking up (or not taking up) through the roots changes. If the shift in pH is too far, this can result in deficiencies of some nutrients and toxic levels of others. In either case this can cause the plant to become sick or even die a slow death.
The best way to know whether the pH is correct for your plant is to do a test. The Plant Company has pH test kits available that are easy to use and only take a few minutes to get a result. Preferably this test should be completed before planting so any pH issues can be corrected without risking the plant. A pH less 6.5 should have a sparing amounts of dolomite lime applied along with shrub fertiliser. A pH above 7.4 should have small amounts of fertiliser for acid loving plants applied. In both instances the fertiliser should be thoroughly mixed into the soil before planting. A retest of the soil pH should be undertaken after four weeks and small adjustments made again. If the pH is in the optimum range, just use shrub fertiliser only.
Lavenders are lush plants and this foliage requires good soil moisture during dry periods to stay fresh and keep growing actively. During summer we advise a generous watering daily or every second day if the soil is a bit heavier. If the flowers or young stems start to droop, you need to water immediately as this is a sign of severe moisture stress and is not normal. The Plant Company advises watering in the morning or in the evening for water conservation purposes and giving the soil a good soaking. During cooler times of the year watering will usually only be required during dry periods or for a period after planting.
Over-watering can be a problem with most plants including Lavenders. Too much and the plants will develop root rot issues and slowly deteriorate. The first tell-tale sign of over-watering is a yellowing of the leaves. If the plants are on a well-drained site or growing in well-drained growing media this should rarely be an issue. Clay soils tend to be poorly drained and can result in the equivalent of over-watering. For this reason, we advise against planting Lavenders on such soils unless drainage issues are addressed.
Growing a Lavender hedge takes some thought and planning to ensure you get what you are after. Factors such as the hedge spacing, desired height, and variety are all important considerations. The Plant Company have produced this series of articles to provide advice for trimming a Lavender hedge and pruning plants so you can manicure them with confidence and success.
Lavenders make amazing hedges (both formal and informal) and to create an outstanding hedge The Plant Company recommends spacing them 50 cm apart. The faster you want the hedge to fill in, the closer they should be planted is the general rule. With this planting regime they will close in quickly and push each other upwards as they compete for light. The result is a fabulous hedge every time.
You can go out to 75 cm if the budget is tight but that will often result in a gap at the bottom between plants which is hard to fill. The gap results from the natural vase shape with which these plants grow. In this situation opt for smaller grade sizes and plant more of them rather than going with bigger plants as this will make the money go further and produce a better result in the longer term.
Lavenders make beautiful hedges and are commonly used for this purpose. The first challenge is to choose the right variety as they do differ in how high and quickly they will grow. Check out our range and the detailed information that accompanies each of our Lavender varieties to make sure you get the right one!
Plants are usually spaced 30-50 cm apart for hedging. They can be planted up to 20 cm apart if a dense hedge is required quickly. They will fill in, even if planted at 60 cm apart, though the density of the foliage at the base of the plants will be reduced at the wider spacing. Remember that the number of plants for a hedge 3 m long and spaced 30 cm apart is 11 (not 10) as you need one at both the start and end.
If a narrow and dense hedge is required, the trimming will need to start early. That is, start clipping the sides and top with secateurs well before it reaches the desired height and width. Each time a stem is cut, the buds on the remaining stem will sprout. Each stem will now end up with two or more shoots growing from it. Repeatedly doing this forces the plant to keep branching and therefore makes the plant denser. Once the hedge is getting close to the desired width, the trimming regime can move to an annual basis and this is usually down in late autumn.
Words of caution. Cutting into older wood will likely see that stem die as Lavenders rarely sprout two-year old wood. That can result in a dead patch in the hedge. Therefore, you should onIy trim off last seasons’ growth. Also, do not miss a year of trimming as this will now result in a wider hedge than you probably want and will have more woody stems than you would also prefer. Finally, do not be aggressive with trimming the hedge unless you are removing new growth only. The Plant Company recommends that Lavender hedges are trimmed in late spring and late autumn each year.
Pruning is essential to maintaining fresh and shapely plants and preventing them from becoming “woody”. The Plant Company recommends pruning lightly in summer and again in late autumn with secateurs to set the plants up for spring growth and flowering. At each time, remove the outer third of the foliage and stems being careful to only remove growth from the past year. You can prune off more than this only if the growth being removed is from the previous season. Cutting into older wood will likely see that stem die as Lavenders rarely sprout buds from two-year old wood. If you can see buds or new growth coming from lower down on older stems, however, it is safe to remove them to 1 cm above that growth. It is therefore important that Lavenders are pruned at least once every year. As soon as a year is missed, a woody Lavender plant will prevail.
Lavenders grow almost like a ball with all of the new growth on the outside of the plant. That ball will keep getting bigger and bigger unless it is trimmed. However, unlike most other plants that can be cut back severely, Lavenders will not regrow if they are cut back too harshly. That is because they generally only shoot from wood that is one-year old wood or less. Older branches that are cut will generally not reshoot and die. Therefore, we prune Lavenders with secateurs to keep them contained and also to encourage the fresh, new growth which bears the flowers.
The best time to prune Lavender is in summer and late autumn. Some articles erroneously advise spring as the best time to prune but this is the time the plants are putting out their new growth and flowers which is what we want to encourage. Pruning with secateurs can still be done at this time but it will be at the expense of flowering. Importantly, pruning in early autumn can see a new flush of growth heading into winter which can be frost tender, so timing of pruning is important.
It is important to trim Lavender once a year which will slow down the formation of wood and prolong the life of your plant. Of course, if you want to prune more than once per year, that is also fine, but it will often be at the expense of flowering.
Lavender are normally trimmed once per year to contain the growth. However, the best hedges are normally trimmed in late winter and then six months later (after flowering). This creates a dense plant or hedge that looks amazing.
The simple answer is with yearly trimming in late autumn. At this time, remove the outer third of the plant but make sure it is only growth from last season. Lavender typically only shoots from one-year old wood, but rarely from two-year old wood. Therefore, if you miss a year of pruning, you have likely lost the ability to stop the plant becoming woody at its centre. Plants can be trimmed twice a year without any issues if you are concerned. For example, The Plant Company recommends that Lavender hedges are trimmed in late spring and late autumn each year.
The answer to this question is generally no. Lavender typically only shoots from one-year old wood, and occasionally from two-year old wood. If you have a woody Lavender, we recommend replacing it with a new plant as pruning is likely to result in multiple dead branches. Be sure to see our guide on how to prune Lavender so this issue does not reoccur in the future.
The answer to this question is generally no. Lavender typically only shoots from one-year old wood, and occasionally from two-year old wood. If you have a woody or dead Lavender, we recommend replacing it with a new plant as pruning is likely to result in multiple dead branches.
Pruning is essential to maintaining good-looking plants and preventing them from becoming “woody”. As a general rule, you should only prune off the growth from the previous season which is usually in the outer third of the plant. Another general rule with Lavender is that the older the wood, the less likely it will sprout buds and regrow. Some varieties may shoot away again from two-year old wood but that is not typical. You can test this by pruning a stem with secateurs and observing whether any buds have formed some 12-weeks later. Ideally, the plants should only be pruned to just above where new shoots emerge from.
Lavender plants can be made bushy by a “tipping” the stems. That is, pinch out the end bud on each stem and this will stimulate the lower buds to sprout. The same principle occurs when plants are lightly trimmed, as this also removes the bud at the end. The reason it stimulates growth is due to a hormone the bud produces which prevents the others from sprouting.
Creating a Lavender topiary standard requires both patience and a straight, single-stemmed plant to start off with. The plant is staked to grow with a straight trunk to just past the mid-height of the topiary (i.e., ball). All the side branches are trimmed off to about 10 cm above the mid-point of the topiary. The top of the plant is cut off just above the mid-point of the ball to encourage sprouting just below the cut. As the new stems grow, they are routinely “tipped” (i.e., the top bud is pinched out) to encourage more shoots. All the time, the ball is progressively shaped until the desired size is achieved. This process can take two years (or more) to complete. If all this seems too hard or you don’t have the patience, contact us and we can generally supply your needs.
Designing a garden that features Lavender is an exciting prospect but one where a little knowledge can be handy. What variety should be planted, how should they feature, and understanding the differences between the different types are all fundamental to making the right decision. The Plant Company has prepared a few articles to explain all of this and steer you in the right direction. Enjoy!
Lavender owes its popularity to not just its aesthetics, but also its versatility. They are commonly planted alongside walkways and garden paths where their scent can be enjoyed, especially on warm days. Lavenders are well suited to planting around living areas such as pools and barbecue areas where they provide both a fresh and colourful display. They are also often used as an informal or formal hedge, included in border, and mixed plantings, or maintained in a pot. The grey-green foliage adds colour diversity, and the fine foliage adds fantastic texture to a planting. Lavenders are also used as a natural pest repellent near patios and porches. The scent is known to deter mosquitoes, flies, fleas, and other problem insects whilst attracting butterflies and bees. Finally, the grey colouring of the foliage also makes them bode well for Mediterranean themed gardens. That said, they can be included in most garden styles with ease. Explore our range of Lavender varieties to find the ones(s) that will fill your design needs!
All Lavenders are beautiful plants and the choice will really depend on how you want to use it. The Plant Company has selected the best and most popular lavender varieties available. Our website offers English, French, and Spanish Lavenders to purchase in a variety of colours. We generally find that our customers select a variety firstly on the flower colour they are wanting, then on how big it will grow. They will also consider whether it will make a nice hedge, whether it can be maintained in a container, and a few other factors before making a final decision. Be sure to check out the detailed information that accompanies each of our Lavender varieties.
There are some important but subtle differences between these Lavender types.
*Plant size: French Lavender will grow to between 60 and 90 cm tall and wide, whereas English and Spanish Lavenders generally reach 60 cm tall and the same wide.
*Growth Habit: French Lavenders tend to be more upright in their growth compared to the English and Spanish Lavenders.
*Flowering: The flowering time is very similar, though flowers tend to last longer and be produced for a longer period with the English Lavenders.
*Fragrance: English Lavenders have a much stronger scent than the other types. All scents from these Lavender types are pleasant nonetheless.
*Flowers: French Lavender flowers are much shorter and compact than the English Lavenders and have distinctive bracts at the top of the flower. The Spanish Lavenders produce flower heads similar to the French Lavender but have distinctive “ears” on the flower heads.
*Foliage: The leaf edge is the best way to identify a French Lavender as it will have a gentle serration along the margin whereas the others do not.
The Plant Company has a good range of the three Lavender types and you should explore our range of Lavender varieties.
English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the variety often associated with the purple fields grown in different countries. The flower colours vary depending on the variety from blue-purple, white-pink, and violet-blue. They are borne off wispy stems which rise up and outwards from the plant to produce amazing drifts of colour. The foliage ranges in colour from grey-green to green with purple overtones and is both narrow and fragrant. They usually grow to 60 cm tall and the same wide, preferring a full sun position and a well-drained site. English Lavender is commonly used in borders such as alongside paths, mass planted on a bank, included in a mixed planting, or maintained in a container. Several of the most popular English Lavender varieties available can be found in our collection of Lavender varieties.
French Lavender (Lavandula dentata) gets its name from the toothed margins on the leaf edges. It produces beautiful and compact flowers that have coloured bracts on top which are usually light purple. The flower colours vary widely across the different varieties with pinks, blues, and purples being the most common. They are borne off sturdy, upright stems which also host the foliage. The foliage ranges in colour from grey, grey-green, and green and is both narrow and fragrant. They usually grow upright to 60-90 cm tall and the same wide, preferring a full sun position and a well-drained site. French Lavender is commonly used for hedging, added to a mixed planting, or maintained in a container. Several of the most popular French Lavender varieties available can be found in our collection of Lavender varieties.
Spanish Lavender is recognised by the “ears” on each flower head even though the flower heads themselves are very similar to those of French Lavender. The flower colours vary widely across the different varieties with pinks, blues, and purples being the most common. They are borne off sturdy stems that also host the foliage, and are generally help upwards. The foliage ranges in colour from grey, grey-green, and green and is both narrow and fragrant. They usually grow as a mound to about 60 cm tall and the same wide, preferring a full sun position and a well-drained site. Spanish Lavender is commonly used for borders, ground covering, added to a mixed planting, or maintained in a container. Several of the most popular Spanish Lavender varieties available can be found in our collection of Lavender varieties.
Lavandula angustifolia “Hidcote Blue” is very popular variety of English Lavender due to its fantastic flowers and foliage. The blue flowers cascade in a whimsical and flowing nature across the plant. They are complemented with an amazing backdrop of lush foliage which also releases a lovely fragrance. “Hidcote Blue” is often included in borders and mixed plantings, and planted around outdoor living areas. It flowers profusely from spring through until autumn and is great for attracting butterflies and bees. A cottage garden is just not the same without an English Lavender included.
Lavandula dentata is a very popular variety due to its fantastic aesthetics and versatility for different garden uses. The flowers are complemented with stunning foliage which also provides for interesting texture. Lavandula dentata is often trimmed into a hedge, planted around outdoor living areas, or included in a mixed planting. It flowers profusely through summer and is great for attracting butterflies and bees.
Lavandula “The Princess” is extremely popular Spanish Lavender owing to the fantastic flower colour which is bright and vibrant pink. The flowers are complemented with stunning foliage. “The Princess” is often maintained in a container before being planted into the garden. It flowers profusely through summer and gives the garden a real wow factor.
Here are some of the fastest growing lavender varieties:
The lifespan of a Lavender plant depends on the variety of lavender, the growing conditions, and the care it receives. With proper care, lavender plants can typically live for 10-15 years. However, some varieties, such as Grosso lavender, may only live for 5-7 years, while others, such as Munstead lavender, can live for up to 20 years.
Lavender plants do have issues from time to time. Therefore, it is important to understand the underlying issue(s) and have the remedies to fix the problem. The Plant Company have produced this series of articles to help you in the quest for answers to address Lavender hedge problems and diseases.
Lavender suffers from few pests and diseases which makes it such a great plant to grow. The only problems are generally yellowing of the foliage caused by root rot, foam caused by the Spittle Bug, stems chewed by the Garden Weevil, or minor disease on foliage caused by Botrytis.
Root rot is generally caused by poor drainage and can only be overcome by ensuring excess water around the roots is avoided. The Spittle Bug does not feed on the plant, but rather finds the foliage as a great place to live. The unsightly foam spots and bugs can be hosed off with water. The Garden Weevil chews at the steams of the mature flower heads of the Lavender, resulting in the flowers becoming withered. This pest is easily controlled with a general insecticide. Botrytis generally results from poor air-flow and high humidity. Trimming the plant will help with air-flow. Failing that, a fungicide can be applied.
Lavender dieback is a common disease that causes stems to die for no apparent reason. A sign of the disease is foliage and stems that start to yellow or blacken, with the leaves eventually falling. The stem then completely dies. Some reports suggest that spraying with a fungicide will fix the issue. Quite frankly this won’t do anything as the disease is caused by a root rot pathogen that is difficult to control.
Affected stems should be removed, burnt (or disposed of), and the secateurs disinfected afterwards. The root disease is typically associated with over-watering or poor drainage. These issues must be addressed for the plant to stand any chance of recovering. Unfortunately, severe root disease can cause death of the entire plant and if it has progressed too far, the best solution would be remove the entire plant. This drastic measure will also help stop it spreading to other plants.
Lavenders generally tolerate frost provided they have been conditioned to it. A new plant may not have been conditioned to the environment and so is likely to require frost protection during its first year of growing. Frost cloth is a great option for achieving suitable protection.
New shoots tend to be more prone to frost damage. For this reason, The Plant Company does not recommend fertiliser or any kind be applied to plants between mid-autumn and late-winter. Similarly, The Plant Company does not recommend planting a Lavender plant with a lot of fresh growth into heavy frost conditions.
Yellowing of the foliage is generally caused by root rot. Root rot generally results from poor drainage and can only be overcome by ensuring excess water around the roots is avoided. If the plant is being grown outdoors, consider whether the site is too wet for this plant or whether it is suffering from too much watering. For Lavender grown indoors, consider both the over-watering and whether the plant is receiving enough sunlight. Lavender typically do not need a lot of watering compared to other, more vegetative plants.
Lavenders require good soil moisture during dry periods to stay fresh and keep growing actively. The Plant Company recommends a generous watering every second day during summer, or every third day if the soil is a bit heavier. If the young stems start to droop, you need to water immediately. The Plant Company advises watering in the morning or in the evening for water conservation purposes.
Propagating Lavender is a relatively straightforward process when you have the right advice. They are easily rooted and our articles give you the best chance of doing this successfully and efficiently.
Lavenders are easily propagated from stem cuttings. Semi-hardwood cuttings are usually taken from autumn until mid-spring. A stem about 10 cm long is trimmed into a cutting using secateurs with 3-5 cm of leaves at the top. The cutting is dipped in rooting hormone for 5-10 seconds and then inserted into propagation growing media. The tray of cuttings is placed under mist with bottom heat also applied. The cuttings will have taken root inside of four-five weeks as a general rule.
A cheap Lavender plant usually comes in a very small pot and has both small foliage and small roots. The small plant can be appealing when you are on a budget, however, think of such plants like babies. They only have a small root system so they need careful attention to watering. They are also more vulnerable to disease and subsequent death. The Plant Company therefore recommends you only buy plants in a 1.5L pot or bigger to have the greatest chance of success, even if you are on a budget. Any savings by buying small are lost when they die and you have to replace them! Moreover, the plants need to be “chunky”, have a strong root system, and show no signs of disease. Be sure to check out our range of Lavender varieties so you are buying the best plants at a competitive price.
The Plant Company has a large-scale production nursery and offers a comprehensive range of Lavender varieties. If you are after bulk lots of plants, please be sure to contact us for pricing and availability. Our talented staff can not only manage all aspects of getting the plants to you, but any other plant-related enquiries you may have. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
Lavender plants generally start at about $15 for a reasonably sized plant and can go to $20. The Plant Company recommends that very small plants are avoided as they can fail and take a long to establish. Any savings you thought you were making by buying small are often lost when the plants are replaced.
Lavandula, commonly known as lavender, is native to the Mediterranean region, including countries like Spain, France, Italy, Croatia, and Portugal. It thrives in warm, dry climates with well-drained soil and plenty of sunshine. Lavender is found in various habitats, ranging from rocky hillsides and coastal areas to open fields and cultivated gardens.
Lavender does repel mosquitoes. The plants produce linalool, a compound that is toxic to insects. Studies have shown that lavender essential oil can be an effective mosquito repellent, with a repellent rate of up to 80%. Lavender is also a natural insect repellent and pollinator attractant!
The list of Lavender that The Plant Company has cataloged, worked on, propagated, and marketed is extensive. Our database of Lavender varieties is listed below:
Lavender × intermedia 'Grosso'
Lavender angustifolia 'Blue Mountain'
Lavender angustifolia 'Blue Mountain White'
Lavender angustifolia 'Foveaux Storm'
Lavender angustifolia 'Hidcote'
Lavender angustifolia 'Hidcote Blue'
Lavender angustifolia 'Imperial Gem'
Lavender angustifolia 'Munstead'
Lavender angustifolia 'Pacific Blue'
Lavender angustifolia 'Thumbelina Leigh'
Lavender 'Fairywings Spellbound'
Lavender 'Javelin Forte Deep Rose'
Lavender pedunculata 'James Compton'
Lavender 'Ruffles Vanillaberry'
Lavender stoechas 'Bee Brilliant'
Lavender stoechas 'Bella Rose'
Lavender stoechas 'Chilliswood Cream'
Lavender stoechas 'Tickled Pink'
Lavender 'Whimsical Fairy Wings'
Lavender x intermedia 'Arabian Night'
Lavender x intermedia 'Impress Purple'
Lavandula angustifolia, commonly known as English lavender, is a flowering plant native to the Mediterranean region, particularly countries like Spain, France, and Italy. It's a popular evergreen shrub, prized for its fragrant purple flowers and silver-green foliage. It is showcased in the famous lavender fields of Provence. Despite its name, "English" lavender is not actually native to England. It was likely given this name due to its ability to thrive in the English climate. Some of its key characteristics include:
Plant details:
Uses of Lavandula angustifolia:
Growing Lavandula angustifolia:
Interesting fact:
The name "Lavandula" comes from the Latin word "lavare," which means "to wash," referring to its historical use in baths, laundry, and personal hygiene. "Angustifolia" means "narrow-leaved," which describes the plant's slender foliage.
Lavender angustifolia 'Munstead' is a specific cultivar of English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and is known for its compact size, early flowering, and intense fragrance.
Lavender angustifolia 'Munstead' is an ornamental plant that is often used in fragrant borders, trimmed into a hedge, or grown in a container. The flowers are often used for potpourri and dried arrangements. Overall, it is a popular choice for gardeners seeking a fragrant and attractive addition to their garden.
[Lavandula stoechas], commonly known as French lavender or Spanish lavender, is a flowering shrub native to the Mediterranean region. It's known for its distinct appearance, characterized by brightly coloured flower heads with prominent bracts and aromatic foliage. Some of the key characteristics of this evergreen shrub include:
Plant characteristics:
Uses of Lavandula stoechas:
Growing Lavandula Stoechas:
Interesting fact:
The name "Stoechas" comes from the Greek word "stoicheion," which means "element" or "principle," possibly referencing the plant's historical use in traditional medicine.
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