Nandina, often called heavenly bamboo or sacred bamboo, is a versatile shrub prized for its colourful foliage and low-maintenance nature. While not a true bamboo, its upright stems and feathery leaves give it a similar look. This guide explains how to grow and care for Nandina in New Zealand, including planting tips, seasonal maintenance, and the best uses in garden landscapes.
Nandinas establish quickly but do not grow into large plants. They will typically grow about 10-15 cm per year provided they are at least 30 cm tall when planted. Planting shorter plants will typically only give 5-10 cm of growth in the first year.
Most Nandinas will eventually reach about 60 cm tall, though some varieties may reach 1 m in height. The Plant Company has put a lot of effort into determining how big each variety will grow in an unrestricted growing environment. Far too often we see people planting a garden too densely and then having to spend a lot of time trimming or removing plants later. This is something we want our customers to avoid and we therefore provide size information for each variety listed so the planning can be right from the start. Be sure to check out our range and the detailed information that accompanies each of our Nandina varieties.
The most important part starts with planting and our article, How To Plant A Nandina, provides sound advice on how to do this properly. So, let’s now assume your plant is growing well and you want to keep it that way!
Winter is the perfect time for mulching and trimming your plants. Trimming can be aggressive or subtle as you like. Typically, plants are trimmed to contain growth and encourage fresh, new foliage. Nandinas will sprout away again no matter how hard they are cut back and provided the stem is healthy. Organic matter such as compost or sheep pellets should be spread liberally around the plants and then overlaid with a mulch during winter. The Plant Company has three very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. The second is Earth Mat which is made from recycled paper. Both of these break down to become part of the soil within two years. The third is black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. Whichever mulch is used, The Plant Company recommend stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top for aesthetic purposes. The Plant Company does not recommend adding fertiliser during winter as this is better applied in spring so less is wasted. However, adding organic matter such as compost is quite okay.
Spring is the perfect time for fertilising the plants as they start to bounce into life. The Plant Company has fertilisers which have been specially blended for different plants and in this instance, our shrub fertiliser will give them the correct boost and keep them fed for 12-months. A suitable alternative is our organic fertiliser which will also keep them well fed but they will require a secondary application in autumn.
Summer is when the plants need regular watering and this should be undertaken every second day on the hottest days. Plants that are establishing need particular attention as their root system will not have penetrated deep enough to secure consistent moisture yet.
Caring for Nandinas in autumn is about keeping the plants healthy. Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken during spring, summer, and autumn if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have already been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser won’t hurt.
Plants should be checked for pest or disease issues during spring, summer, and autumn. If anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Nandina Issues And Troubleshooting.
Caring for Nandinas in autumn is all about weed control and keeping the plants healthy. Keeping the weeds down around the plant and cutting off any stray branches will also help with maintaining a tidy plant.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have previously been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong which will aid the plant immensely as it shoots new growth in spring. You can apply shrub fertiliser but this should only be done it if can be watered in well. Finally, monitor for pests and diseases, and if anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Nandina Issues And Troubleshooting.
Spring is the perfect time for fertilising and mulching around the plants as they start to bounce into life. The Plant Company has fertilisers which have been specially blended for different plants and in this instance, our shrub fertiliser will give them the correct boost and keep them fed for 12-months. A suitable alternative is our organic fertiliser which will also keep them well fed but they will require a secondary application in autumn.
Organic matter such as compost or sheep pellets should be spread liberally around the plants and then overlaid with a mulch (if not done already) during winter or spring. The Plant Company recommends an organic mulch is used as this breaks down over time to provide nutrients and improves the soil. The Plant Company has three very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. The second is Earth Mat which is made from recycled paper. Both of these break down to become part of the soil within two years. The third is black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. Whichever mulch is used, The Plant Company recommend stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top for aesthetic purposes.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have already been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or the leaves have some unusual yellowing or browning, however, a liquid fertiliser won’t hurt.
Check plants for any pest or disease issues during spring, summer, and autumn. If anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Nandina Issues And Troubleshooting.
Summer is when the plants need regular watering and this should be undertaken daily on the hottest days. Plants that are establishing need particular attention as their root system will not have penetrated deep enough to secure consistent moisture yet. Don’t be fooled that even though they will tolerate dry periods, that they won’t benefit from being watered.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have previously been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and encourages more foliage as the nutrition is right where the plant needs it. Please note: The Plant Company does not recommend using solid fertilisers at this time of year unless plenty of water can be applied.
The other required activities for Nandinas during summer are weed control and monitoring for pests and diseases. Keeping the weeds down around the plant and cutting off any stray branches will help keep the plants tidy. Plants should be checked for pest or disease issues during spring, summer, and autumn. If anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Nandina Issues And Troubleshooting.
A wide range of plants can be grown with Nandinas and this is often determined by the garden style being adopted. When used for informal hedging The Plant Company often recommends using low growing groundcovers such as Pratia, Lysimachia, Dichondra, or Cerastium. These same plants are often also used for Nandinas grown in a pot. They bring colour and a complementary style, though the colour of the pot is often the determining factor for which plant is chosen. Where Nandinas are included in a mixed planting, we will still use the aforementioned plants but now mix it up with Hebes, Carpet Roses, and Lavender.
The good thing about Nandinas is that they are versatile and blend easily with most plant colours and textures in a subtle, yet non-overpowering manner.
Nandinas are vigorous plants that require feeding to keep them growing optimally. The Plant Company's Shrub Fertiliser has been blended to give plants an initial boost and then sustained nutrition for 12-months. We recommend the fertiliser is applied to the soil surface in spring just as the plants start to grow actively. More importantly, we advise that no fertiliser is placed in the hole at planting, but rather spread around the soil surface so it can wash through the roots as it releases. The Plant Company's Shrub Fertiliser ensures that nutrients remain in the soil around the plant rather than being lost through the soil profile to where the plant cannot reach it. This also applies to plants grown on sandy soils. The Plant Company’s shrub fertiliser is therefore very environmentally friendly and longer lasting than most other products in the market.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if shrub fertiliser has been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and lush.
Nandinas grown in containers require different fertiliser to those grown outdoors in soil. In this instance the correct fertilisers to use are either the container plant fertiliser or fertiliser tablets. Each of these will provide safe, sustained, and complete nutrition to the plant for the next 12-months. Using other types of fertiliser can be detrimental to the plant and may result in plant injury or death.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if container plant fertiliser or fertiliser tablets have been used. If you think the plant needs an extra boost or has some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and lush as the nutrition is right where the plant needs it.
Nandinas are showy plants that require feeding to keep them looking amazing. A lot of articles have all sorts of advice on this subject which often requires multiple applications so you use more of their fertiliser. The Plant Company prefers to take a simpler and more environmentally responsible approach. We believe the best organic option is The Plant Company organic fertiliser which is applied in spring and again in autumn and will keep them well fed. You can safely apply generous amounts of this fertiliser without risk of injuring the plants. More details about this organic fertiliser are provided with the product.
The soil pH refers to how acid or alkaline the soil is. Nandinas prefer a soil pH within the range of 6.2 to 7.5 which means they will tolerate both acidic and semi-alkaline soils. As the pH of the soil moves away from this optimum range, the nutrients the plant is taking up (or not taking up) through the roots changes. If the shift in pH is too far, this can result in deficiencies of some nutrients and toxic levels of others. In either case this can cause the plant to become sick or even die a slow death.
The best way to know whether the pH is correct for your plant is to do a test. The Plant Company has pH test kits available that are easy to use and only take a few minutes to get a result. Preferably this test should be completed before planting so any pH issues can be corrected without risking the plant. A pH less 6.2 should have sparing amounts of dolomite lime applied along with shrub fertiliser. A pH above 7.5 should have small amounts of soil acidifying fertiliser applied. In both instances the fertiliser should be thoroughly mixed into the soil before planting. A retest of the soil pH should be undertaken after four weeks and small adjustments made again. If the pH is in the optimum range, just use shrub fertiliser thereafter.
The most common disease problem with Nandinas is leaf spot, which is caused by fungi. It is most prevalent during wet or humid weather when leaves remain continually wet. The tell-tale symptoms are yellow spots on the leaves which turn brown with age. Internal leaf drop can also occur.
The best solution to this issue is good airflow through the foliage. This causes the leaves to dry more quickly. This can be achieved by thinning out the stems (see the article, How To Trim A Nandina) for how to do this correctly. Choosing a different position to grow the Nandina is another option. Plants can be treated with Wetcit if there is little disease or using a Copper Fungicide if the disease is well established. Please be sure to read the label before using any agrichemical.
Nandinas do not suffer from pest issues as a general rule. Scale Insect, Mealybugs, Whiteflies, and Aphids have been observed on plants in the nursery but not at levels that would justify spraying them. That said, if pest levels are high and of concern, then a general insecticide can be used for their control. Please always read the label before using any agrichemical.
Leaf yellowing can result from disease (refer to the article Nandina Diseases) as well as poor drainage and too much shade. A sign of poor drainage is often seen by the older leaves exhibiting yellowing. If the internal leaves of the plant are yellowing, yet the outer leaves remain green, it is highly likely that they are being shaded by the outer leaves. Such yellowing in this instance is normal.
Occasionally, nutritional issues can occur if plants have not been fed for a number of years. This often shows up as discoloured foliage. A liquid fertiliser can be used to correct issues quickly and should be supported with shrub fertiliser during spring.
If the new growth on your Nandina has been killed or damaged by frost, prune the plant back to short stems above ground level after the risk of frost has passed. If a plant has been aggressively pruned in a cold climate and an unseasonal frost is forecast, frost cloth or a blanket may be used to afford protection. It is important not to cut off the frosted growth until the risk has passed as this growth, albeit ugly, is helping to shield the plant from further damage.
New shoots tend to be more prone to frost damage than older ones. For this reason, The Plant Company does not recommend applying fertiliser of any kind to plants between mid-autumn and late-winter as this can create soft shoots.
Nandina are hardy to frost, though young plants should be protected until they are at least 40 cm tall. Frost Cloth is a good option for protecting vulnerable plants from severe frost. Be careful to harden off recently purchased plants if you intend to plant these during winter and frosts are likely. Do this by gradually exposing them to the cooler conditions over a 2-3 week period or until such time as you think that a frost won’t damage them. The Plant Company recommends holding off planting until spring if you are at all worried that new plants might get frosted.
If plants do get frosted, they will generally recover. However, you will need to protect them from further frosts as this could kill them completely. Generally speaking, a good sized Nandina planted in spring should have grown tall enough and acclimatised to cope with frosts the following winter.
Nandinas are very easy to grow, but you need to have the basics right. Choose a sunny spot with good drainage. The soil should be well prepared with organic matter added from either compost or sheep pellets mixed in. Feeding your plants in spring with shrub fertiliser will replenish nutrients and keep them fed for 12 months. Prune your Nandina in winter each year with secateurs to control their growth and encourage fresh growth in spring. They should also be watered regularly during dry periods to keep them flourishing.
Soils rich in fertility and organic matter that are well-drained will produce amazing plants. The soil should be well prepared with either compost or sheep pellets mixed in at planting or spread on the soil surface after planting. It is important that the soil being planted into won’t restrict root growth and for this reason, clay soils are generally not well suited to Nandinas. Clay soils also tend to be very wet which will negatively impact the performance of the plant. A little test that can be done is to dig the hole, fill it with water before the plant goes in, and leave it for 24-hours. If the water is still in the hole, you will need to address the drainage before planting.
Feeding your Nandina plants in spring with shrub fertiliser will replenish nutrients and keep them fed for 12 months. Liberal amounts of organic fertiliser can also be used. Ensure plants are watered regularly during dry periods to keep them flourishing.
Nandinas can be grown in coastal areas provided they are not constantly covered with sea spray. Therefore, they are more suited to the opposite side of the house from the sea. If the soil is too saline, this can prove detrimental to plants and can result in the plants being stunted. If you elect to plant in this environment, The Plant Company recommends ensuring the soil is well prepared with organic matter such as compost and provide some shelter with regular watering during dry periods.
The answer to this question depends on how much shade. As shade levels increase, Nandinas tend to become less colourful, “leggy”, and more open in their growth habit. In full sun they tend to be much more compact in their growth. So yes, they will grow in partial shaded conditions such as down the side of a house or under dappled light from a tree, but growth is likely to be less than if they were growing in better light. Please note that in partially shaded environments the central leaves on the plant will often yellow and fall which can result in a plant that has mostly exterior foliage only.
Nandinas look amazing when managed appropriately in a pot. Choose a pot that is no more than twice the size of what the Nandina is currently growing in and that has plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the bottom of the pot to about 1/3 of the way up with potting mix. Do not use soil or compost when growing plants in a container and do not add fertiliser. The Plant Company potting mix has all the nutrients required to sustain the plant for the next 12 months.
Now assess the roots before progressing. If they are not all bound up, and haven’t been growing in a circle within their original container, place the plant in the new pot without removing any of the growing media or cutting the roots. You can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. If, however, the roots have been circling the inside of the pot or they look root bound, simply cut through those outer roots on either side with secateurs. You don’t need to be any more aggressive than this or remove any of the growing media. You can try and tease the roots apart, but this generally breaks them which is why we cut them. Add more potting mix and firm this around the plant using gentle pressure, then water well. They should be watered twice a week during hot weather and weekly or fortnightly during cooler periods.
The key to having an amazing Nandina in a pot is to keep trimming it to keep it shapely, contained, and dense. Typically, the plants would be lightly clipped every 3-4 months.
Nandinas owe their popularity to not just their aesthetics, but also to their versatility. They are commonly planted as informal hedges, or used as backdrops for smaller plants. They are well suited to planting around living areas, pool, and barbecue areas where they provide a fresh appeal and great aesthetics. The lush foliage is fantastic for providing a hint of the tropics and adding both depth and texture to a planting. They can be included in most garden styles with ease and make for an exciting addition. Explore The Plant Company's range of Nandina varieties to find the one(s) that will suit your design needs!
Nandinas make amazing hedges (both formal and informal) and to create an outstanding hedge The Plant Company recommends spacing them 50 cm apart. The faster you want the hedge to fill in, the closer they should be planted is the general rule. With this planting regime they will close in quickly and also push each other upwards as they compete for light. The result is a fabulous hedge every time. You can go out to 75 cm if the budget is tight but that may result in a gap at the bottom between plants which is hard to fill. In the budget is an issue, opt for smaller grade sizes and plant more of them rather than going with bigger plants as this will make the money go further and produce a better result in the longer term.
If 25L grades (or bigger) are purchased which are 1m tall and lush, you can space these 75 cm apart without issue. These grades have generally been manicured by the nursery to ensure they are bushy to the base and will therefore branch and fill in more easily.
Choose a full sun position with good drainage and moderate shelter for your Nandina. The hole should be dug to at least 50-75% deeper and wider than the container the plant is currently growing in. The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread shrub fertiliser on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring. We have prepared specific articles to help you grow amazing Nandinas: How To Plant A Nandina, How To Trim A Nandina, Best Fertiliser For Nandina, When To Water Nandinas, How To Mulch Nandinas, Nandina Issues And Troubleshooting.
Placing mulch around Nandinas helps keep the soil moist and significantly reduces weeds. The Plant Company recommends an organic mulch is used as this breaks down over time to provide nutrients and improves the soil. It is also better for the environment than the plastic-based alternatives. Whatever type of mulch is used, it needs to be free draining so the soil can “breathe” and allow water to penetrate quickly and easily. Heavy rates of lawn clippings are therefore not a good option as they hold too much moisture. The Plant Company has three very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. The second is Earth Mat which is made from recycled paper. Both of these break down to become part of the soil within two years. The third is black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. Whichever mulch is used, The Plant Company recommends stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top for aesthetic purposes.
Compost is not considered an effective mulch as weeds germinate easily and it is only short lasting. It is, however, a very good method of adding organic matter to the soil and should be applied before the mulch is put down.
Choose a full sun position with good drainage for your Nandina plant. The hole should be dug to at least 50-75% deeper and wider than the container the plant is currently growing in. A planting spade makes the hole digging a lot easier. The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread that on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring.
Remove the plant from the container it is growing in by either pulling it free or by cutting the bag. We recommend cutting the bag, especially for larger grade plants, to minimise any chance of damaging the roots. Once out, you need to assess the roots before progressing. If they are not all bound up, and haven’t been growing in a circle within the container, place the plant in the hole without removing any of the growing media or cutting the roots. You can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. If, however, the roots have been circling the inside of the pot or they look totally root bound, simply cut through those very outer roots on either side. You don’t need to be any more aggressive than this or remove any of the growing media. You can try and tease the roots apart, but this generally breaks them which is why we cut them.
Now place the plant in the hole and make sure it is level with the soil surface before filling in around it. If it is above the soil surface, dig more out. If it is below, put in more soil and retest the level. Once the plant is set level with the soil surface, add more soil gradually and firm it around the plant using gentle pressure as you go. Scatter shrub fertiliser across the soil surface after planting and then give the plant a good watering.
The Plant Company has a range of Nandina varieties and the choice depends really on your colour preference. Looking firstly at the colours and then the common uses, we have put together our recommendations.
Most intense colouring: Nandina Blush, Nandina Obsession
Yellow tones: Nandina Firepower
Red tones: Nandina Blush, Nandina Obsession
Informal hedging: Nandina Blush, Nandina Pygmaea, Nandina Firepower
Growing in a container: Nandina Blush, Nandina Obsession
Tropical gardens: Nandina Blush, Nandina Firepower
Outdoor living areas: Nandina Blush, Nandina Obsession, Nandina Firepower
Be sure to check out The Plant Company's amazing range of Nandina varieties to find the one(s) that will suit your needs.
Only potting mix should be used when plants are grown in a container. Often people will try and cut corners and use soil or mixes that contain both soil and potting mix with poor results. The same applies to when plants are potted up with compost as it holds too much moisture. Soil also contains weeds and tends to become compacted in a container, hence why it is not used in this manner. The Plant Company has nursery grade potting media which is pre-loaded with the correct amounts of fertiliser and micro-nutrients to keep the plant sustained with nutrition and actively growing for the next 12-months. After 12-months, simply add a couple fertiliser tablets to keep the plant fed for the next 12-months.
Nandinas are best planted from mid-autumn until late spring. During this time, they can cope with the stresses associated with planting (root damage mainly) more easily than if they have to also cope with heat and moisture stress as well. They can be planted in summer provided they are well-watered and the roots have plenty of growing media attached when planted. If watering is a challenge, The Plant Company advises planting from late-autumn through until early-spring. Make sure you have a good planting spade to make this job a lot easier.
A full sun or partial shade position with good drainage is essential for getting the best results with Nandinas. On poorly drained sites or with over-watering they tend to become stunted and sickly looking. This can cause and result in root rot issues that may eventually kill the plant if drainage is very poor. If you think this might be a problem for you, please refer to the article, Nandina Diseases.
Nandinas tend to become “leggy” and more open in their growth habit when grown in shade. This becomes more pronounced as the level of shade increases. In full sun they tend to be more compact and denser. The leaf colouring is also more intense when grown in full sun.
The position should also be moderately sheltered so fresh growth is not damaged by wind and this will help produce a better shaped plant overall. In wind prone areas the plants may develop a lean or become imbalanced in their growth. Where ever they are grown, make sure they have plenty of room to expand!
Nandinas are easily propagated from stem cuttings. Semi-hardwood cuttings are usually taken from autumn until mid-spring. A stem about 8-10 cm long is trimmed into a cutting using secateurs with 2-3 leaves at the top and just below a node. Any flowers are removed. A nick is taken off the base of the cutting to expose more tissue. The cutting is dipped in rooting hormone for 5-10 seconds and then inserted into propagation growing media. The tray of cuttings is placed under mist with bottom heat also applied. The cuttings will have taken root inside of three weeks as a general rule.
Most Nandina varieties will sprout new shoots when cut right back, even to stumps at ground level. However, this relies on the plant having heathy stems at the outset. If the stumps have any dead wood or they are too old (more than five years), they may not shoot or may only shoot on one side. Similarly, stumps that still have actively growing foliage may not sprout unless all the foliage connected to that stem is completely removed.
Severe pruning using a pruning saw or secateurs is best undertaken any time from late autumn until early spring. Multiple shoots will usually grow from each stump. Please note: Nandinas grown in heavy shade environments may struggle to re-establish when cut back severely.
Nandinas make amazing informal hedges (i.e., minimally trimmed) and to create an outstanding hedge, space plants 50-60 cm apart. The faster you want the hedge to fill in, the closer they should be planted. Similarly, space plants closely if you want a dense hedge quickly (40 cm apart). Any variety of Nandina is suited to informal hedging and the choice really depends on what colour your are after. Check out our Nandina varieties to find the one that suits your needs.
Nandinas are trimmed each winter to contain growth and encourage fresh, new growth. The Plant Company recommends removing one-third of canes each year at close to ground level. The plants will sprout new buds from healthy stumps and grow again. Any dead stems should also be removed at this time, along with those showing disease or obviously weak.
A mistake often made with Nandinas is to trim plants to shape them. Doing this tends to lose the soft and delicate appeal, and can result in an imbalanced plant. Nandinas grow from single canes and when a cane is cut it will sprout one or two more canes. Therefore, when the canes are cut with shears, the result is a lot of new canes which can be flimsy and weak.
Nandinas can be trimmed at any time of the year, though winter is the time recommended by The Plant Company. It is the new growth that makes the plants look amazing, so cutting out the older growth to make way for the new growth in spring is the goal. All you need is a good pair of secateurs and you can be as aggressive as you want. The plants will sprout new buds from stumps as long as they are not diseased.
When Nandinas are grown in pots they are often clipped every 2-3 months. This keeps them dense and helps make them shapelier.
Sometimes you just don’t want to wait for a plant to grow, and you want the instant display now. The Plant Company has large grade Nandina available, and often has even larger grades available that are not listed for sale on our website. Please contact us and our amazing team will let you know options and pricing for delivery to your desired location.
The list of Nandina varieties that The Plant Company has cataloged, worked on, propagated, included in garden designs, or marketed is extensive. Our database of Nandina varieties is listed below:
Nandina domestica "Gulf Stream"
Nandina domestica "Harbor Belle"
Nandina domestica "Harbor Dwarf"
A cheap Nandina plant usually comes in a very small pot and has both small foliage and small roots. The small plant can be appealing when you are on a budget, however, think of such plants like babies. They only have a small root system so they need careful attention for watering, and are particularly vulnerable to root rot disease. The Plant Company therefore recommends you only buy plants in a 2.5L pot (preferably bigger) to have the greatest chance of success, even if you are on a budget. Any savings by buying small are lost when they die and you have to replace them! Moreover, the plants need to be “chunky”, have a strong root system, and show no signs of disease. Be sure to check out our Nandina so you are buying the best plants at a competitive price.
Buying quality plants can be a challenge at times. However, The Plant Company makes this job easy by offering high quality Nandina. We appreciate that buying online is somewhat of a leap of faith given you are putting your trust in us. Therefore, we only ship plants that we would happily buy and plant ourselves. We propagate and nurture plants ready for their new home, and take pride in exceeding our customers expectations. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
The Plant Company has a large-scale production nursery and produces large numbers of Nandina. If you are after bulk lots of plants, please be sure to contact us for pricing and availability. Our talented staff can not only manage all aspects of getting the plants to you, but any other plant related enquiries you may have. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
The Plant Company has great stock of high quality Nandina plants. We appreciate that buying online is somewhat of a leap of faith, given you are putting your trust in us. Please rest assured that we only ship plants that we would happily buy and plant ourselves. Trust in The Plant Company to supply your Nandina needs and allow us to impress you both with our quality and service. Our impressive Google Rating shows we are good at what we do!
Nandinas are lush plants and the foliage requires good soil moisture during dry periods to stay fresh and keep growing actively. The Plant Company recommends a generous watering every second day during summer, or every third day if the soil is a bit heavier. If the young stems start to droop, you need to water immediately. The Plant Company advises watering in the morning or in the evening for water conservation purposes. Please be sure to read the article, Nandina Diseases, as over-watering can have unintended consequences!
Even though Nandinas are tolerant of dry periods they will still benefit from being watered. During those dry periods the plants will stop growing to preserve themselves. This is clearly not desirable if you are still wanting them to grow. They will start growing again once rain or water is provided.
Whether you need assistance finding the plant you’re looking for or you simply want to know more about who we are and what we do, we invite you to get in touch with us today. A member of The Plant Company team will get back in touch as soon as possible.
Join our community of happy customers.
