How to Grow Grass From Seed

Growing grass from seed can seem a daunting task when you’ve never done it before. Rest assured, it is easy to grow an amazing lawn from seed, and at a fraction of the price of instant lawn. The essential steps around site preparation, choosing the right variety, and planting the grass seed are all covered in this series of articles. They have been prepared by an industry expert, so you can benefit from their experience and produce an amazing lawn.

Growing A Fine Fescue Lawn

The advantage of growing a Fine Fescue lawn is that you can spray out all the other grass weeds and broadleaf weeds to end up with a weed-free lawn more easily than with other lawn varieties. However, the key to an amazing Fine Fescue lawn is care and attention whist keeping wear to a minimum. That is, if you have dogs or children that like to play on the lawn, Fine Fescue is not the right choice as it will end up with a lot of bare patches. Please see the article, Selecting The Right Lawn Variety to determine which variety to use. Too often we see people reseeding a Fine Fescue lawn with another variety because they have missed the vital point around wear.

Let’s assume you have followed the instructions given in the sections, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn and How To Seed A Lawn, and now you have a newly struck, Fine Fescue lawn. After it has been actively growing for 3-5 weeks, put on the broadleaf herbicide, Turfix and follow the label instructions. It is vital that over-spraying is avoided and label rates are followed to avoid injuring the young seedlings. One week after the Turfix has been applied, apply the grass specific herbicide, Ignite to take out any foreign grasses, once again following the label. This needs to be repeated in spring, summer, and autumn, and Ignite will kill grass weeds such as Couch, Paspalum, and the like. Turfix will need to applied each year in spring and early autumn. If other broadleaf weeds remain after Turfix treatment, refer to the article, Controlling Broadleaf Weeds In Lawns

Water and fertiliser are essential to growing a Fine Fescue lawn well. If the lawn is moisture stressed it will start to go dormant and will not grow again until it is watered. Often when this happens, the lawn emerges patchy, and is something you want to avoid as this provides opportunity for weeds to grow.

Fertiliser for established lawns should be applied during spring, summer, and autumn at low rates to keep the lawn growing actively and avoid it becoming stressed for any reason. Be sure to water in the fertiliser after application. DO NOT use urea or any ammonium based fertilisers as this is a common cause of “burning” in lawns. Please refer to the following articles for advice on Rolling The New Lawn and Mowing The New Lawn.

Fixing Poor Drainage In A Lawn

Poor drainage in a lawn can only be fixed by giving the water somewhere to go. In a small lawn, soak pits can be dug as needed across the area. It is important that they are deep (at least 600 mm) and have drainage material such as pea metal to allow water to pass through and soak away. In larger lawns, the solution may require a mini-excavator and Novaflo drainage pipe with pea metal overlaid. Sometimes we will locate a large soak pit at the back of a garden and Novaflo pipe is laid to feed into that soak pit. The area above the soak hole can be planted with Ornamentals That Like Wetter Areas. The Plant Company recommends that drainage is the first thing considered before starting a new lawn as it is difficult and messy to rectify after the lawn is established.

Growing A Kikuyu Lawn

The advantage of growing a Kikuyu lawn is that it grows well in coastal areas where other grasses would struggle and still produces an amazing lawn. However, the key to a fantastic Kikuyu lawn is patience and growing it in the right climate. In frost prone areas it will likely die off and go dormant during winter, hence why the South Island is generally not regarded as being suitable by The Plant Company.

Let’s assume you have followed the instructions given in the sections, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn and How To Seed A Lawn, and now you have a newly struck, Kikuyu lawn. The lawn itself is actually a mixture of annual ryegrass (85-90%) and Kikuyu (10-15%). The ryegrass is added to support the Kikuyu which is often slow to germinate and can be overtaken by other weeds. As the ryegrass is an annual, it dies out at the end of summer to leave a pure stand of Kikuyu. Pure Kikuyu seed is expensive and when used by itself creates grass weed problems that are a challenge to resolve due to its slower germination. That is why a blend is always used across the turf industry.

After the Kikuyu lawn has been actively growing for 3-5 weeks, put on the broadleaf herbicide, Turfix and follow the label instructions. It is vital that over-spraying is avoided and label rates are followed to avoid injuring the young seedlings. This needs to be repeated in spring, summer, and autumn for good control but can be used less frequently as broadleaf weeds present. Keep an eye out for grass weeds such as Paspalum and manually remove any of these seedlings as soon as they show. Just use a screwdriver to ease them out and drop a little more seed into the hole if the grass is a bit “thin” in that area. If you followed the recommendations in the article, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, there should be few, if any. Fertiliser is essential for growing a Kikuyu lawn well and fertiliser for established lawns should be applied during spring, summer, and autumn at low rates to keep the lawn growing actively. DO NOT use urea or any ammonium based fertilisers as this they are a common cause of “burning” in lawns.

While Kikuyu lawns are generally regarded as drought tolerant, they will benefit from being watered, especially during their first year. Remember, the goal is to produce a lush lawn as quickly as possible to suppress weeds. Anything that can help the grass grow will help towards achieving a better lawn overall.
Please refer to the following articles for advice on: Rolling The New Lawn and Mowing The New Lawn.

Growing A Tall Fescue Lawn

Tall Fescue is a highly aesthetic variety of lawn that can handle some minor foot traffic. It is not suited to areas where the kids or dog will be on it daily, but every now and then is okay. Please see the article, Selecting The Right Lawn Variety to determine which variety to use if you are unsure.

Let’s assume you have followed the instructions given in the sections, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn and How To Seed A Lawn, and now you have a newly struck, Tall Fescue lawn. After the Tall Fescue lawn has been actively growing for 3-5 weeks, put on the broadleaf herbicide, Turfix, and follow the label instructions. It is vital that over-spraying is avoided and label rates are followed to avoid injuring the young seedlings. This needs to be repeated in spring, summer, and autumn for good control of broadleaf weeds. Keep an eye out for grass weeds such as Paspalum and manually remove any of these seedlings as soon as they show. Just use a screwdriver to ease them out and drop a little more seed into the hole if the grass is a bit “thin” in that area. If you followed the recommendations in the article, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, there should be few, if any.

Fertiliser is essential to growing a Tall Fescue lawn well and fertiliser for established lawns should be applied during spring, summer, and autumn at low rates to keep the lawn growing actively. Do not use urea or any ammonium-based fertilisers as they are a common cause of “burning” in lawns.

Tall Fescue lawns benefit immensely from being watered during dry periods. If the lawn is left to dry out, it will brown off and go dormant until soil moisture levels increase again. Remember, the goal is to produce a lush lawn as quickly as possible to suppress weeds. Anything that can help the grass grow will help towards achieving a better lawn overall. Please refer to the following articles for advice on: Rolling The New Lawn and Mowing The New Lawn.

Growing The Perfect Lawn

The key to a fantastic lawn is all about the preparation before seeding, choosing the right variety, and then looking after the lawn once it has germinated. Each situation tends to be slightly different which is why The Plant Company has put considerable effort into producing articles that detail every step of the process. We want our customers to grow lawns they will be proud of and their neighbours envy. Please refer to our articles Selecting The Right Lawn Variety, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, How To Seed A Lawn, and Lawn Weed Control if you are starting a new lawn. If you simply want to tidy up what you’ve got, the article How To Pimp My Lawn would be a great place to start. Enjoy!

How Deep Do I Sow Lawn Seed?

Grass seed typically germinates within the top 10mm of soil. As the planting depth increases, however, the chances of getting the seedlings to emerge starts reducing. Lawn Seed will strike even if applied to the soil surface provided it does not dry out. Therefore, when seeding an area, The Plant Company recommends only a gentle raking. Some seed will be mixed with the soil and some will be exposed on the soil surface after this task is complete. This is normal.

How Do I Know If My Soil Is Too Compacted For Seed To Germinate?

Checking to see if the soil is too compacted for lawn seed to germinate is essential for establishing a lawn successfully. The test involves taking a garden fork, holding it at waist height, and then dropping it. If it digs in, the soil is fine to seed as compaction is not evident. If, however, the fork falls over, the ground is too compacted and needs to be worked up to get the seed to strike and take root. This test is vital for lawn success and should be repeated across the area to be sown. It is also a good indicator of whether an established lawn needs to be aerated. NB: a dry lawn can be hard and give misleading results. The lawn should therefore be moistened several hours before doing this test.

How Long Before My Lawn Appears

The time for a new lawn to appear depends on the temperature. During summer, a green tinge will be evident after just a few days. A lawn sown in winter can take three weeks to be at the same level. The Plant Company advises sowing lawns anytime from mid-spring until mid-autumn to coincide with the warmer temperatures. Please also note, that the faster a lawn establishes, the less weed pressure there is likely to be. See our articles on Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn and How To Seed A Lawn for great information on getting a lawn underway.

How Much Lawn Seed Do I Need?

The answer to this question depends on the variety, whether you are seeding a new lawn or over-sowing an area, and the time of year. The Plant Company has detailed information about seeding rates for Amenity Rye, Tall Fescue, Kikuyu, and Fine Fescue lawns for seeding both tilled areas and for over-sowing. A buffer of 10% is included for seeding tilled areas and 15% for over-sowing within those recommendations. If you plan to seed during cooler times of the year, The Plant Company recommends allowing an additional 10% buffer. See our articles on Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn and How To Seed A Lawn for great information on getting a lawn underway.

How To Fix Compaction In A Lawn

Fixing compacted areas in a lawn requires the soil to be worked up. For small areas, the solution can simply be using a garden fork and gently opening up the top 10-15 of soil. You don’t necessarily need to turn the soil over but rather open it up. The critical area is the top 5 cm which is where the new seed will germinate from. However, we do need to work the soil deeper to break up the hard layers so the roots can penetrate. The more effort you put into opening up the soil, the better the chances of getting a successful seed strike. The Plant Company recommends mixing seed with some fine soil when seeding such areas and using a high rate of seed application.

For larger areas, the soil is probably best to be properly worked up to a fine tilth. The Plant Company often recommends incorporating compost with the soil during this process as compacted soils are often devoid of organic matter. Adding compost lessens the chances of the soil become compacted again and ultimately results in a better lawn in that area. Once the soil has been prepared you are now ready for seeding. Please see our articles on Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, How To Seed A Lawn, and How Much Lawn Seed To Use for great information on getting a lawn underway.

Please note: compacted areas can quickly become the same again if vehicles or foot traffic continues at unabated levels. Therefore, the solution to compaction may also require those issues to be addressed at the same time.

How To Get A Lawn Level?

You’ve got an area worked up and it has a few humps and hollows despite all your best efforts. How do we then get it consistently level before seeding? The first step is to rake it until it looks level. If you have worked it deeply (i.e., greater than 20 cm deep) you’ll need to let it settle for a few days. The best way to speed up the settling process is to water it thoroughly and let the weight of the water act like natural compaction. After it has settled, rake it again, then use a straight piece of timber, about 2-3 m long, and run that across the soil surface like a screed. Keep doing this until you are happy with the levels. This does take some patience but is worth the effort as you will generally be looking at that lawn every day.

If you have a large lawn, you might want to consider using a quad-bike with three old tyres towed behind it. You need to have a bit of speed on so the tyres deflect the high spots rather than riding over them and gouging deeper hollows. You will be surprised at how effective that method is. Do not use a heavier vehicle as this will cause compaction and subsequent germination issues.

The final step is to saturate the soil with a sprinkler and look for any pooling or settling areas. Those are the low spots that need to be addressed with more soil and further levelling. Do not roll the lawn before seeding as this can cause compaction issues. The Plant Company recommends you read the articles, Selecting The Right Lawn Variety, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, and How To Seed A Lawn, as the next steps.

How to Grow A Highly Aesthetic Lawn

Tall Fescue and Fine Fescue are regarded as the most aesthetic lawn varieties due to their fine leaves and soft appearance. Fine Fescue has a very fine leaf blade and when grown well, produces turf that everyone will admire. See the article, Growing A Fine Fescue Lawn, for details on how to grow this lawn type well. However, Fine Fescue Lawns are also the most challenging to grow and will fail if they experience wear (dogs and children playing generally) and are not looked after with regards to spraying, fertilising, and watering.

Tall Fescue has a wider leaf blade than the Fine Fescue and also produces a highly aesthetic lawn. In this instance, however, it will cope with slightly more wear than Fine Fescue Lawns. Careful attention to the inputs is also required and this is covered in the article, Growing A Tall Fescue Lawn. Please see the article, Selecting The Right Lawn Variety to determine which variety to use if you are unsure.

The final part to growing a highly aesthetic lawn is to not mow it too low as this will allow weeds to establish and takes away from the lush appeal that makes a lawn stand out. The most aesthetic lawns are generally mown twice per week with a little and often philosophy. Lawn mowing is covered in the article, Mowing A New Lawn.

How To Growing A Hard Wearing Lawn

The Plant Company's choice of varieties for a hard-wearing lawn is Amenity Rye. It forms a lush and dense sward that can cope with a lot of foot traffic and is easy to grow. This turf type is typically used on sports fields across NZ and is perfect where kids and pets will be on the lawn often. Please see the article, Selecting The Right Lawn Variety to determine which variety to use if you are unsure.

To grow an Amenity Rye lawn well, let’s assume you have followed the instructions given in the sections, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn and How To Seed A Lawn, and now you have a newly struck lawn. After the lawn has been actively growing for 3-5 weeks, put on the broadleaf herbicide, Turfix, and follow the label instructions. It is vital that over-spraying is avoided and label rates are followed to avoid injuring the young seedlings. This needs to be repeated in spring, summer, and autumn for good control of broadleaf weeds. Keep an eye out for grass weeds such as Paspalum and manually remove any of these seedlings as soon as they show. Just use a screwdriver to ease them out and drop a little more seed into the hole if the grass is a bit “thin” in that area. If you followed the recommendations in the article, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, there should be few, if any.

Fertiliser is essential for growing a lush Amenity Rye lawn. Therefore, fertiliser for established lawns should be applied during spring, summer, and autumn at low rates to keep the lawn growing actively. DO NOT use urea or any ammonium based fertilisers as they are a common cause of “burning” in lawns.

Amenity Rye lawns benefit immensely from being watered during dry periods. If the lawn is left to dry out, it will start to open up and allow weeds to appear. Remember, the goal is to produce a lush lawn as quickly as possible to suppress weeds. Anything that can help the grass grow will help towards achieving a better lawn overall. Please refer to the articles: Rolling The New Lawn and Mowing The New Lawn for more advice.

How To Pimp My Lawn

Three regular inputs will do amazing things to improve your lawn and you will see results in just two-three months. The first is to spray out the weeds such as Dandelions, Onehunga Weed, Mallow, etc, using the broadleaf herbicide, Turfix. Be sure to follow the label instructions and spray in spring, summer, and again in autumn. It is vital that over-spraying is avoided and label rates are followed to avoid injuring the lawn.

The second is fertiliser, which is essential to growing a great lawn and often the thing that people neglect. It is often ignored as it means the lawn will need mowing more often! That is the compromise with growing a nice lawn unfortunately. Fertiliser for established lawns is the correct product to use and this should be applied during spring, summer, and autumn at moderate rates to keep the lawn growing actively. Don’t try and cut corners using urea or other ammonium-based fertilisers as often this leads to “burning” and terrible outcomes. The final input is water. A lawn should be watered every second day during dry periods. Once again, this will make the lawn grow faster but it will also make it more lush and less prone to weeds establishing. It will also prevent the unsightly brown patches in lawns that often result when they dry out.

These basic fixes will encourage whatever grass plants make up your lawn to thrive. However, if those grass species are weeds such as Paspalum and the like, they too will flourish so it might be time to plant an entirely new lawn. If that is the case, see our articles: * Selecting The Right Lawn Variety * Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn * How To Seed A Lawn

How To Prepare The Site For Over-Sowing A Lawn

This article deals with over-sowing a lawn where the soil has not been worked up or only minimally tilled. If you are planning on working up the soil, please refer to our article on Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn. If poor drainage or constant ponding present as problems, this will need to be resolved to achieve a successful lawn and must be addressed first. See our article on Lawn Drainage for more information on this subject. The first step is to kill any weeds and the old lawn using glyphosate and to remove large plant residues. The Plant Company recommends adding Wetcit in with the glyphosate to give it an extra boost and broaden the range of weeds controlled. Any weeds such as clover will not be controlled with glyphosate so it may be necessary to use a contact herbicide that targets the problem weed(s). Do not use Turfix or other lawn herbicides during this preparation phase as they can negatively affect the seedlings as they germinate. For small areas of problem weeds, boiling water can be another option for control.

If it is an old lawn being replaced, The Plant Company recommends mowing the lawn at a very low level 2-3 days after spraying. We do this to help expose as much soil as possible rather than being covered over with vegetative material. You don’t need to chip away the old lawn unless the soil is compacted.

If the soil is heavily compacted, over-sowing will give a poor result. To assess compaction, take a garden fork, hold it at waist height and drop it. If it digs in, the soil is fine for over-sowing. If, however, the fork falls over, the ground is too compacted and needs to be worked up to get the seed to strike and establish. This test is vital for lawn success and should be undertaken across the site. NB: a dry lawn can be hard and give misleading results. The lawn should therefore be moistened several hours before doing this test. While the lawn can now be sown, The Plant Company highly recommends a little more effort to minimise weed problems down the track. This is particularly important where Couch and Paspalum could be problems. This process involves watering the lawn and getting the weeds to germinate so they can be sprayed with glyphosate. Do this for three weeks with spraying every week is the recommendation. It also gives the opportunity for more levelling to be undertaken. The last spray of glyphosate is the day before you intend to sow. Now you are ready to sow the lawn!

How To Prepare The Soil For Sowing A Lawn

This article deals with seeding a new lawn into worked up soil, or where a 10 cm layer of soil has been applied over an old sward. If you are planning on over-sowing and not working up the soil, please refer to our article on Preparing The Lawn For Over-Sowing. If poor drainage or constant ponding presents as a problem, this will need to be resolved to achieve a successful lawn and must be addressed first. See our article on Lawn Drainage for more information on this subject.

The first step is to kill any weeds using glyphosate and to remove large plant residues. Do this even if you plan on working up the soil and before adding any more topsoil. The Plant Company recommends adding Wetcit in with the glyphosate to give it an extra boost and broaden the range of weeds controlled. Any weeds such as clover will not be controlled with the glyphosate so it may be necessary to use a contact herbicide that deals with the particular weed issue. Do not use Turfix or other lawn herbicides during this preparation phase as they can negatively affect the seedlings as they germinate. For small areas of problem weeds, boiling water can be another option for control.

The next step is to work up the soil to a fine tilth and rake it free of debris and rocks. If the soil is heavily compacted you might need to dig a little deeper but otherwise, we are only focussed on working up the top 10 cm. On sandy soils you might want to incorporate compost which will assist with moisture retention and help stimulate biological activity. Compost is less important on other soil types but can be added if desired. It will help to produce a better result. Tip: If the soil is hard, consider soaking it 24-hours before working it up. After raking, and to achieve a more level surface, The Plant Company often recommends using a 2m long board to screed the area, much like levelling out concrete. Do not use a roller to level out the lawn as this will create compaction and hinder seed germination.

We now undertake a simple compaction test before progressing any further. That is, take a garden fork, hold it at waist height and drop it. If it digs in, the soil is fine to seed. If, however, the fork falls over, the ground is too compacted and needs to be worked up again to get the seed to strike and take root. This test is vital for lawn success. While the lawn can now be sown, The Plant Company highly recommends a little more effort to minimise weed problems down the track. This is particularly important where Couch and Paspalum could be problems. This process involves watering the lawn and getting the weeds to germinate so they can be sprayed with glyphosate. Do this for three weeks with spraying every week is the recommendation. It also gives the opportunity for more levelling to be undertaken. The last spray of glyphosate is the day before you intend to sow. Now you are ready to sow the lawn!

How To Seed A Lawn

Having established a seedbed that is now ready to receive seed, the next challenge is how to get the seed on. The Plant Company prefers to keep this simple without the need for spreading equipment unless you have a very large area to seed.

Mix lawn seed and new lawn fertiliser (or soil) in equal quantities in a bucket. Usually, half of the seed will be used during the first application. Walk back and forth across the area scattering the mix as you go. It is important to meter out the mix so it covers the entire area. Now mix the remaining lawn seed and new lawn fertiliser together and walk across the area at right angles to the first pass. The blue colour of the new lawn fertiliser is a great indicator for where the seed is landing. You should see a consistent application of lawn seed and new lawn fertiliser on the ground when finished.

For a large lawn, The Plant Company recommends a seed spreader is used which can be sourced from a local Hire Centre. Alternatively, break the area into sections and meter out the seed accordingly. We would generally spend more money on seed than hiring equipment, but this depends on the size of the area.

Complete the process by gently running a rake across the soil surface. Do this even if you are over-sowing an area. If all your preparation has been done according to the advice in The Plant Company articles, this will be a quick and easy job without the need to move earth around. Please refer to the articles Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn or Preparing The Lawn For Over-Sowing if you are still in the early stage of getting a lawn underway.

Lastly, start to water the newly seeded areas shortly after sowing. This helps bind the seed to the soil and is important for germination to begin. Even if the soil appears moist, The Plant Company advises a light irrigation. Gentle watering should be at least daily thereafter until a green tinge appears across the entire area.

Remember, seed is cheap relative to the cost of rework and associated angst if you get it wrong. The sowing recommendations provided by The Plant Company already have buffers of 10% included so please use all the seed unless you have deliberately over-ordered.

Lawn Plant Alternatives

There are three species that are commonly used instead of a grass lawn: Pratia, Selliera radicans, and Vinca. Pratia is a ground over that rarely needs any trimming and is well suited for smaller spaces that don’t get foot traffic. Selliera is a more vigorous plant that can be walked across on and can be mown with a lawn mower as needed. The most vigorous option is Vinca. This forms a carpet of spreading stems that can take reasonable foot traffic, dry periods, and be mown as needed. Be sure to check out The Plant Company's detailed information that accompanies each of these plants so you get the right one for your environment.

Lawn Seed Quality

There is a lot of cheap lawn seed available from different retailers and often that seed will give highly variable results. The Plant Company has seen first-hand the disasters created with cheap seed. Patchy lawns through poor germination, mixed lawn species, and seed full of weed seeds are the common issues with cheap seed.

The Plant Company only uses certified seed with greater than 99% germination. Establishing a lawn takes a lot of effort and we want our customers to get it right the first time. Therefore, The Plant Company cannot emphasise enough the importance of buying quality lawn seed.

Selecting The Right Variety Of Lawn

The choice of lawn depends on your climate, how much wear your lawn will get, and what look you are wanting to achieve. The Plant Company generally starts with how much wear the lawn will get when recommending a variety. That is, will the lawn have kids and dogs playing on it constantly? If the answer is yes, then Amenity Rye is the best option as other varieties will struggle and end up patchy. This variety is the same as used in most sports turfs around NZ. For limited wear lawns, Tall Fescue or Kikuyu also become options. Fine Fescue lawns do not cope with wear at all.

Climate is the next consideration for choosing a variety. If you live in a coastal are or need a tough grass, then Kikuyu is a great option. However, Kikuyu may go dormant during winter so is not the best option for cooler regions or areas that have a lot of frost. Generally, The Plant Company does not recommend Kikuyu for the South Island. Tall Fescue and Amenity Rye will grow in most environments, including cool climates, but may go dormant (i.e., brown off) during summer if not watered. Fine Fescue is not suited to coastal areas but will grow well in most other climates.

The final consideration is the look you are after. If wear and climate are not an issue, then the most aesthetic lawns will be achieved with either the Fine Fescue or Tall Fescue varieties. Specifics around growing each variety are covered in subsequent sections. Amenity Rye and Kikuyu lawns are still aesthetic but not to the level of the Fescues. Warning! There is a lot of cheap seed available from different stores and often that seed produces highly variable and often disappointing results. The Plant Company only uses certified seed with greater than 99% germination. Establishing a lawn takes a lot of effort and for most people they don’t have time to do it once, let alone twice. Therefore always buy quality lawn seed.

Should I Over-Sow Or Work Up My Lawn For Planting?

The decision to over-sow or work up a lawn is mostly about risk and the effort you want to put into establishing a lawn. Over-sowing is a much riskier option as you are relying on seed to strike with minimal soil around it. The seed is therefore vulnerable to drying out, being eaten by birds, and can result in bare patches that need to be reseeded later. That said, by getting a few basics right, this is often a viable and cost-effective option for establishing a lawn. Please refer to the article, Preparing The Lawn For Over-Sowing, for more specific details on how to go about it.

Working up an area for seeding is an almost fool proof way of establishing a great lawn. It allows the lawn area to be levelled and the lawn to establish more quickly. This process does require considerably more effort but is often hugely rewarding both from an aesthetic perspective. The article, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn is a great place to start if you are considering this.

Should I Use Ready Lawn Or Sow Seed?

The answer depends on your budget, whether you have the time to prepare and sow a lawn, and how quickly you expect a result. Ready lawn costs about $11 per square metre plus freight for a standard variety. Based on a small, 10m x 8 m lawn, that is a cost of at least $880 plus installation. The same seed for that area will cost about $45 plus preparation costs. There is still basic soil preparation required before laying ready lawn such as levelling and spraying out the old lawn. The final consideration relates to your patience. Ready lawn is instantaneous and the same result would take 12-20 weeks to be achieved through seeding.

The Plant Company recommends you read the articles, Selecting The Right Lawn Variety, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, and How To Seed A Lawn, as you ponder the decision about seeding or using instant lawn.

When Is The Best Time To Sow A Lawn?

Mid-spring through until mid-autumn is regarded as the best time to sow lawn seed. In warm climates seeding can occur through winter but the rate of establishment will be slower and more seedlings may be lost to diseases which tend to prevail in cold and wet conditions. Seeding in colder times can also result in more weed problems as the lawn takes longer to establish. The Plant Company recommends a minimum soil temperature of 15 degrees Celsius for Kikuyu and 10 degrees Celsius for all other varieties.

Sowing a lawn in summer is fine provided the area can be watered regularly. See The Plant Company articles on Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn and How To Seed A Lawn for great information on getting a lawn underway.

Birds And New Lawns!

You’ve just sown a new lawn and the birds are having a feast! That is often the way this is described to The Plant Company from novice lawn growers. Our article(s) put this issue into perspective and afford sensible advice for how to fix the issue and ensure the feasting is generally nothing to worry about.

Managing Birds In A Newly Sown Lawn

The reality is that it would take a massive bird infestation to have any effect on a newly seeded lawn. That said, birds will be more of an issue for an over-sown lawn or where the seed has not been mixed into the soil. The simple solution is to offer the birds an alternative food source. The birds are only going for the lawn seed because it is an easy meal. By that logic, The Plant Company recommends giving them an easier meal by deliberately putting out seed each day or some slices of bread. This only needs to happen for 7-10 days while your lawn strikes.

The recommended sowing rates provided by The Plant Company for lawn seed include a 10% allowance for loss to birds. That loss rate is increased to 15% for rates recommended for over-sowing. Actual seed losses to birds are generally less than 5%.

Fertiliser

The best lawn fertiliser products are those used by the professionals. Afterall, they make a living out of growing amazing lawns. The Plant Company has prepared a few short articles to give you guidance on what the professionals are using and why, so you too can achieve amazing results.

Best Lawn Fertiliser In NZ – Products Used By The Professionals

The Plant Company has seen some shocking examples over the years of “burning” on lawns caused by the wrong fertiliser being applied, and often at the wrong time. Therefore, it is important to make sure the right product is used in the right way.

The first point is that a newly sown (or about to be sown) lawn needs different fertiliser from an established lawn. A new lawn requires nutrients that will get the root system going while also promoting strong foliage so the plant establishes quickly and beats the weeds. The Plant Company has a proven product, new lawn fertiliser, which gives outstanding results and is the only standard fertiliser The Plant Company recommends to be used at or before sowing. It has a NPK ratio of 12.4:5.2:15 with calcium and sulphur also included.

For older lawns, it is more about maintaining the grass and ensuring it is not missing any vital nutrients. These are slowly removed with the clippings and through natural leaching, so the goal here is to replenish those nutrients. Fertiliser For Established Lawns is The Plant Company’s recommended product as it provides everything the lawn needs.

Both New Lawn Fertiliser and Fertiliser For Established Lawns are reasonably quick release products and need to be watered in after being applied. Failing to water them in could lead to minor burning, particularly during hot and humid weather. Applications at the recommended rates should be made in spring, summer (if you can water), and autumn. Please note: fertiliser should not be applied to lawns that cannot be watered or where rain is not forecast. The Plant Company also recommends that mowing is delayed until after the fertiliser has been watered in.

The Plant Company does not recommend using Controlled Release Fertilisers on established lawns as the fertiliser can be sucked into the catcher during mowing and lost. More information on options around using Controlled Release Fertilisers on a lawn can be found in the article, Controlled Release Fertiliser For Lawns.

Recommended Lawn Fertiliser Products

The Plant Company makes fertilizing lawns easy by only having two main products. For a new lawn or anywhere fresh lawn seed has been applied, use new lawn fertiliser. This fertiliser has all the nutrients your new lawn seedlings need to get away quickly and strongly. It has a NPK ratio of 12.4:5.2:15 with calcium and sulphur also included. For established lawns or those that are at least 12-weeks old, use [established lawn fertiliser]. Once again, this fertiliser has everything needed to make the lawn lush and will also kill any moss present in the lawn.

The Plant Company strongly recommends avoiding the use of urea or ammonium-based fertilisers on lawns as these often result in unsightly “burning”. Similar burning can also occur with over-application of any fertiliser, even those presented in this article. The general rule is little and often, watered in, to get the best result with little risk.

Is Over Fertilising A Lawn Possible?

Over-fertilising a lawn is not only possible, but it's unfortunately quite common. While fertiliser provides essential nutrients for healthy grass growth, applying too much can have detrimental effects.

It can happen in several ways:

Misapplication: Using more fertiliser than your lawn needs, spreading it unevenly, or applying it on a windy day can all lead to over-fertilising.
Wrong product: Choosing a fertiliser with high nitrogen content or using weed-and-feed products too frequently can also contribute. The Plant Company often sees lawns where urea or ammonium-based fertiliser has been applied and this generally creates widespread burning.
Ignoring soil tests: Without knowing your soil's nutrient levels, you might unknowingly provide unnecessary nutrients.

The consequences of over-fertilising a lawn:

Fertiliser burn: This appears as yellowing, browning, or scorching of grass blades, resembling dog urine patches.
Stunted growth: Ironically, over-fertilising can hinder root development and slow down healthy growth.
Increased susceptibility to disease and pests: Weak grass becomes more vulnerable to attacks.
Environmental damage: Excess nutrients can leach into waterways, harming aquatic life.

What to do if you suspect the lawn has been over-fertilised:

Water deeply: This helps dilute the fertiliser and flush it out of the root zone.
Let the lawn recover naturally. You will surprised at how resilient a lawn can be.
In severe cases, a lawn care specialist can advise on reseeding measures.

Prevention:

Follow the application instructions carefully and don't exceed recommended rates. Spread the fertiliser evenly and apply on calm days.
Choose the right fertiliser: Opt for slow-release formulas with balanced nutrient ratios.
Less is often more: When in doubt, err on the side of under fertilising. You can always add more later if needed.

By understanding the dangers of over-fertilising your grass and taking preventive measures, you can keep your lawn healthy and avoid harming the environment.

Controlled Release Fertiliser For Lawns

Controlled Release Fertilisers can be used on a lawn but are generally not recommended by The Plant Company if the lawn is mown with a catcher. This is because the fertiliser is often sucked up by the mower blades and blown into the catcher which tends to defeat the purpose. However, if the lawn is mown using a mulching mower, then a Controlled Release Fertiliser is both a cost-effective and environmentally friendly method of fertilising a lawn.

The Plant Company considers Controlled Release Fertiliser environmentally friendly because the nutrients are released over a long period rather than all at once. The rate of release is related to temperature rather than soil moisture which means the plants are generally being fed when they are most actively growing. Other fertilisers release nutrients as soon as they come in contact with water, so nutrients can be lost through leaching far more easily than with Controlled Release Fertilisers.

Best Organic Fertiliser For A Lawn

The Plant Company has a certified organic fertiliser that is perfect for using on lawns. It has a NPK rating of 2.5:3.5:3.4 with sulphur, magnesium, and calcium included. This organic fertiliser is typically used at 100 grams per square metre (i.e., a cup full) during spring and autumn. The Plant Company recommends watering the fertiliser in shortly after application.

Sheep Pellets and compost are sometimes used on new lawns and these are typically worked into the soil during cultivation. See the article, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, for more information on seedbed preparation.

Should I Put Lime On My Lawn?

The answer to the question about whether to use lime depends on your soil pH. The optimum pH for a lawn is 6-6.5. The best way to determine the pH is by using a pH Test Kit. This quick test will tell you whether a correction is necessary. Should the pH be lower than 6, use dolomite lime at the recommended rates. If it is above pH 6.5 you might want to consider using soil acidifying fertiliser at the recommended rates. In either case, apply the fertiliser and retest the soil after four weeks.

How To Make A Lawn Greener?

The question of how I can make the lawn look awesome often comes up when people are wanting to sell a property and they are looking for a quick remedy to darken up a lawn. A product that does within just a few days is Magnesium Sulphate. This solution, however, is only short term (2-3 weeks) and the lawn will revert to its original colour if the product is not reapplied.

If a more medium-term (4-6 weeks) remedy is acceptable, The Plant Company recommends using Fertiliser for established lawns which has been specifically blended to give the lawn all the nutrition it needs for the next 6-12 months. Don’t try and cut corners using urea or other ammonium-based fertilisers as often this leads to “burning” and terrible outcomes. That would be a disaster if the property is being prepared for sale. Fertiliser for established lawns is simply spread by hand across the lawn and then watered in.

Best Organic Fertiliser For A Lawn

Controlled Release Fertiliser For Lawns

Controlled Release Fertilisers can be used on a lawn but are generally not recommended by The Plant Company, especially if the lawn is mown with a catcher. This is because the fertiliser is often sucked up by the mower blades and blown into the catcher which tends to defeat the purpose. However, if the lawn is mown using a mulching mower, then a Controlled Release Fertiliser is both a cost-effective and environmentally friendly method of fertilising a lawn.

How To Make A Lawn Greener?

The question of how can I make the lawn look awesome often comes up when people are wanting to sell a property and they are looking for a quick remedy to darken up a lawn. A product that does within just a few days is Magnesium Sulphate. This solution, however, is only short term (2-3 weeks) and the lawn will revert to its original colour if the product is not reapplied. If a more medium-term (4-6 weeks) remedy is acceptable, The Plant Company recommends using Fertiliser for established lawns which has been specifically blended to give the lawn all the nutrition it needs for the next 6-12 months. Don’t try and cut corners using urea or other ammonium-based fertilisers as often this leads to “burning” and terrible outcomes. That would be a disaster if the property is being prepared for sale. Fertiliser for established lawns is simply spread by hand across the lawn and then watered in.

Should I Put Lime On My Lawn?

What Fertiliser Should I Use On My Lawn?

For older lawns, it is more about maintaining the grass and ensuring it is not missing any vital nutrients. These are slowly removed with the clippings and through natural leaching, so the goal here is to replenish those nutrients. Fertiliser For Established Lawns is The Plant Company's recommended product as it provides everything the lawn needs.

Fixing Lawn Issues And Problems

Knowing what to do to fix a lawn problem can be a challenge. The Plant Company has pulled together a few of the challenges our clients face from time to time and prepared articles that cover the advice we gave them to solve their problems.

How To Stop Soil Crusting

A crust on the soil surface acts as a barrier to seedlings trying to get through. In severe cases, the crusting can result in a very poor seed strike and a patchy lawn. There are three solutions depending on your situation that can be used individually or in combination to address the issue. The first solution is to keep the area moist until the seedlings have come through by watering every day (twice a day in hot weather). The water keeps the soil surface soft but be careful not to over-water the area as this can be just as detrimental. The second is to mix compost into the soil before planting. A 20 L bag should be mixed into the top 5 cm of soil over 3-4 square metres. The third option is to use a soil conditioning agent such as Transformer. This product reduces crusting by 95% and should be applied 3-5 days before seeding and watered in. If you are making up a 10 L of spray, mix 1 L of Transformer with 9 L of water and apply that to 100 square metres of lawn. Using more of this product will not do any harm and will improve the result. Doing all of these options together will certainly increase your chances of achieving good establishment where soil crusting is a problem.

What To Do About Thin Patches In A Newly Seeded Lawn

We generally expect that 4-5 weeks after sowing a lawn, you’ll have a young and fully filled in lawn. This is often not the case for various reasons covered soon. Sometimes you will have areas that appear to have just a few seedlings coming through and look “thin” compared to the rest of the lawn. The question becomes whether to add more seed or not. The Plant Company generally advises a light scattering of seed to be on the safe side which is gently raked in or applied with a small amount of soil. Don’t worry about a few seedlings being disturbed during this process. Also keep in mind that a lawn seedling will develop into a plant that is about 4-5 cm wide so it doesn’t take a lot of seedlings to fill an area.

The thin patches are most commonly due to the seed drying out during germination, the soil being too compacted, a crust on soil surface preventing the seedling coming through, or severe bird strike. Seed drying out is a common problem with over-sowing or sowing during summer. The easy solution is to focus watering efforts on those areas. Rarely is over-watering the cause but you may need to consider that as a potential cause.

Compacted soils do not make good seed beds and only by working up the areas or using a garden fork to open up the soil will this issue be remedied. See the article, How To Fix Compaction In A Lawn, for expert advice on dealing with this issue.

Soil crusting tends to be a problem when the soil has been worked to a very fine tilth. This is remedied with the product Transformer, by keeping the seedbed continually wet, or a combination of the two. The crust can only form when it dries out, so keeping it moist means the seedlings can still push through. Further detail can be found in the article, How To Stop Soil Crusting.

Birds are often touted as being responsible for thin areas. While this may be true in some cases, it is generally the exception. Please see the article, Managing Birds In A Newly Sown Lawn, if you think they are an issue.

Why Is My Lawn Not Growing?

There can be many reasons but the most common (covering 99% of them) and related articles are:

Poor drainage – see the Lawn Drainage article for methods of addressing this issue.
It’s too cold for the seed to germinate. The Plant Company recommends a minimum soil temperature of 15 degrees Celsius for Kikuyu and 10 degrees Celsius for all other varieties.
There is a nutrient deficiency. Best Fertiliser For A Lawn is a great article for explaining what should be used on a lawn.
The ground is too compacted. How To Fix Compaction In A Lawn is a great article for methods of testing and addressing this issue.
It has gone dormant. Kikuyu lawns will go dormant and die back during winter. This is normal in cooler regions. Other lawn species will die back during summer if soil moisture levels get too low. Once again, this is normal and the lawn will regrow again.
The soil has developed a crust and seedlings cannot push through. How To Stop Soil Crusting gives great tips on this issue.
Misadventure with fertiliser. Using high rates of fertiliser, particularly the wrong fertiliser, can cause “burning” of the lawn and young seedlings. Please see the article Best Fertiliser For A Lawn to get this right!
Misadventure with herbicide. The Plant Company has seen numerous examples where the wrong herbicide was used across a lawn and the entire lawn has been killed. Please be sure to read the product labels, avoid overlapping the sprays, dispose of any spray mixed up when finished, and store the product in its original container.
Major pest or disease outbreak. See the articles Pest Control In Lawns and Disease Control In Lawns for symptoms and solutions.

Lawn Care, Maintenance, And Aeration

Growing a lawn requires a degree of care, some maintenance, and a little effort. The tasks are not onerous by any means, but there are a few tricks if you want to grow a magnificent lawn. Topics such as aeration, rolling, and mowing are all covered in this series of short articles which have been put together by an industry expert so you can achieve amazing results. Enjoy!

Aerating A Lawn

The roots of plants, including lawns, need air to grow well. When starved of air, such as when they try to grow in compacted soils, the roots slowly die and eventually the plant will succumb. The result is a bare patch of lawn. The more normal situation is for lawns to have yellow patches or for the lawn to have an unhealthy look to it. Lawns with a lot moss or a thick that are a good indicator that air is not permeating into the soil as it should.

There are different methods for aerating a lawn but the most common are as follows.
(a) For small areas a garden fork can be pushed into the ground and often gently levered to open up the soil a touch. This is repeated across the area in a systematic manner. Please take care not to overdo this as it could result in a bumpy lawn. Specialised lawn aeration tools can often be sourced from hardware stores.

(b) For larger areas, Hire Centres will often have lawn aeration equipment. They are generally machines with a series of spikes that are run across the lawn. Some machines will extract small plugs as part of the process which achieves both aeration and thatch removal.

The Plant Company advises that the lawn is then left without watering or fertilising for a few days unless you feel the process undertaken has left it stressed or vulnerable to drying out.

How Often To Mow A Lawn

Little and often is the general answer to how often a lawn should be mown. During summer this is usually once per week, and this extends to once a fortnight during winter. Mowing a lawn too low, which often happens when you’re trying to slow the lawns growth down, creates opportunity for weeds to establish. The Plant Company therefore recommends mowing lawns on the third to lowest mower setting and higher.

How to Keep High-Traffic Areas in Your Lawn Looking Good

High foot traffic areas can pose thin spots in the lawn or even bare patches. Such areas are often around gates or where people or pets walk a consistent path across the lawn. There are a few things that can be done to minimise the problem.
Options to consider include: 1. Leaving the lawn a little longer in those areas Is the quickest and easiest option. That will provide a cushioning affect and help protect the lawn plants.

Incorporate compost into the soil before seeding the problem areas. Compost will help produce stronger plants that are deeper rooted, and can take more wear.
Fertilise the areas regularly (once per month) with Fertiliser for established lawns. Once again, producing stronger plants will help them cope.
Soil aeration can help. Often the lawn will be struggling due to compaction which not only starves the soil of oxygen for the roots to breath but also restricts water getting to the roots. Using a garden fork to punch holes into the area or a lawn aerating tool can alleviate the problem temporarily and will need to be repeated every two months.
Let the lawn recover. Simply stopping the traffic for a few weeks can make a world of difference to an area, particularly if the earlier points have been followed as well.

You might want to consider pavers or other material to inlay into the lawn to address issues if you think the issue won’t be addressed by these tips.

How To Level An Established Lawn

Removing low spots in an established lawn is possible with a little effort. Firstly, mow the lawn on a low setting to identify where the low spots are. Fill the low spots with top finely worked soil and level that out using a rake. Don’t worry about spraying out the grass before applying the top soil unless it is a weedy mess. Walk across the area to firm it gently, then use a 2-3m long piece of timber to screed it flat. Mix the lawn seed with new lawn fertiliser in a bucket and spread this liberally across the area. The final step is to gently rake the seed into the topsoil and then water the newly sown area.

If the area to be levelled is significantly larger, you might want to consider using a quad-bike with three old tyres towed behind it. You will be surprised at how effective and fun that method is. Do not use a heavier vehicle as this will cause compaction and subsequent germination issues.

How To Revive A Lawn After Dethatching Or Scarifying

The lawn can look “shocked and thin” after scarifying and you might even be a little taken back as well. Don’t worry, this is only a temporary issue and it will bounce back.

The first step is to over-sow it with lawn seed which can be mixed with sand and new lawn fertiliser. The Plant Company recommends doing this across the entire lawn to get new seedlings coming through and reduce weed infestations. The lawn is then thoroughly watered each day for the next 7-10 days, regardless of whether it was over-sown or not. In just a few weeks you will have an amazing lawn again.

Lawn Maintenance In Autumn

Autumn is the perfect time for getting weeds under control and fertilizing the lawn. If you have an old lawn you might want to consider dethatching it with a scarifyer. Please see our article, When And How To Scarify A Lawn, for more detail on this subject. If you have bare patches that need fixing, this is also the perfect time to address these. Refer to our articles, Repairing A Lawn and Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn for more information.

Weed control is achieved by using Turfix at label rates to control broadleaf weeds. Be careful not to overlap the spraying too much as this can cause plant injury, particularly if a strong mix has been made. If you have problem weed areas, please refer our Lawn Weed Control articles for specialist advice.

Completing these easy tasks will make your lawn thrive and set it up for winter!

Lawn Maintenance In Spring

Spring is the perfect time for getting weeds under control and fertilizing the lawn. Larger tasks may involve scarifying and thinking about an irrigation plan for summer.

Use Turfix at label rates to control broadleaf weeds, being very careful not to overlap the spraying as this could cause plant injury. If you have problem weed areas, please refer to our weed control articles for specialist advice. Apply fertiliser for established lawns and water this in. Those are the easy tasks complete that will make your lawn thrive!

If you have an old lawn you might want to consider dethatching it with a scarifyer. Please see our article, When And How To Scarify A Lawn, for more information on this subject. Getting the irrigation sorted with pop-up sprinklers is also a great job to complete during spring.

Lawn Maintenance In Summer

The focus for summer lawn maintenance is generally about watering and spraying for weeds, though fertiliser is sometimes also applied. Please refer to our Lawn Watering Tips for how to do this both efficiently and effectively.

Fertiliser can be applied during summer if you have water to plenty of water to wash it in. The Plant Company recommends using fertiliser for established lawns in a little and often manner. The Plant Company, however, does not recommend applying fertiliser where watering will be an issue.

Lawn Maintenance In Winter

Winter is generally a quieter time for lawn maintenance. That said, there is no reason why weeds cannot be controlled and fertiliser applied.

The Plant Company recommends using fertiliser for established lawns sparingly during winter to avoid wastage.

Mowing A New Lawn

A new lawn should not be mown until it is about 6 cm tall which can be 4-8 weeks after sowing, depending on the temperatures and variety. The goal is to let the lawn seedlings establish into substantive plants to suppress weed seedlings. The faster the lawn can establish, the fewer weed issues there will be. Mowing early or mowing the lawn low runs the risk of pulling out lawn seedlings and creating gaps for weeds. The Plant Company recommends mowing the lawn with a catcher on the highest settings for the first 2-3 mows. The height can then be progressively reduced after the lawn has been rolled.

Established lawns are often mown on the lowest setting possible to reduce the time between mowing. While that often produces a tidy lawn, it does allow bare soil to be exposed and therefore weeds to strike. The Plant Company recommends that lawns are not mown any lower than the third lowest setting on the mower.

Repairing A Lawn

There are two common types of lawn repair. The first is usually from a trench that has been dug, and the second is to fix an area that is growing poorly.

The key to repairing a lawn that has had a trench filled in is to get the soil level again. Simply filling in the trench and then seeding it will see a sunken hollow in the lawn over the next few weeks. The trick is to fill the trench to top, trample it, then saturate it with water. The water will help settle the soil in a natural manner. Fill the trench with soil after the water has drained and leave it proud by about 10 cm (or enough that will settle into the trench over the coming weeks). The tendency is always to level it off at this point which is a mistake that will result in more work to fill the depression later on. The raised area will settle. Mix the lawn seed with new lawn fertiliser in a bucket and spread this liberally across the area. The final step is to gently rake the seed into the topsoil and then water the newly sown area. Good information can be found in the articles, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, How To Seed A Lawn, and How To Get A Lawn Level.

Fixing an area that has grown poorly requires a little more understanding to determine why it has ended up that way. The common causes and articles to address the issues are: *Compaction (e.g., from driving on the lawn area) – How To Fix Compaction In A Lawn *Lack of fertiliser – Best Fertiliser For A Lawn *Lack of water – Lawn Watering Tips *Grass grub infestation – Grass Grub Control In Lawns

Rolling The New Lawn

A lawn is rolled to break up or push down any small clods or stones and thus create a smoother surface.

The best time to start rolling a lawn is after you are satisfied with the germination (i.e., there are no bare areas) and it is 6-8 cm tall. Rolling can be done after the second or third mow if you think some seedlings are still coming through. If you are still wanting to seed areas for whatever reason, hold off rolling until that area has germinated.

The soil needs to be mailable before rolling to get the most out of rolling it. Soaking the soil 24-hours before rolling is often all that is needed. Trying to roll a dry lawn will generally give a poorer result.

Rolling typically involves using a water-filled lawn roller which most Hire Centres have. Start by rolling the lawn without adding any water to the roller, then gradually fill the roller with water. Starting the process with the roller full of water makes it a harder task than it should be and can cause over-compaction. Roll the lawn one way, then change the angle to roll it in another direction.

The time to stop rolling is once the desired level of smoothness has been achieved. However, continuing to roll with heavier equipment can cause compaction issues and thereby create an uneven lawn. There is a fine balance here and The Plant Company recommends minimizing compaction by only rolling to get the lawn smooth. If you followed the recommendation in the article, How To Get A Lawn Level, rolling will be an easy task.

The lawn seedlings may exhibit a little bruising from the rolling, but because the growing tips are at the soil surface, they will recover quickly. Any discoloration will therefore be temporary only.

NB: The Plant Company doesn’t consider lawn rollers good for levelling out a lawn as their affect is more localized. For example, a lawn roller may soften a hump but it will struggle to eliminate it. Moreover, trying to eliminate a hump will likely cause compaction issues, resulting in uneven growth of the lawn. Like all things, preparation is key, and the articles, How To Get A Lawn Level and Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, provide sound advice.

What Is Thatch In A Lawn?

Thatch is the residue left behind when parts of the grass plant die. This completely normal as young plants grow up and replace their parents. The result is layers of plant material progressively building up.

The problem with thatch is that it generally repels water which leads to uneven growth and it also restricts new grass tillers coming through. This leads to a thinner lawn that is more prone to weeds as well as pests and diseases.

Scarifying is the term used to dethatch a lawn. The Plant Company recommends not letting the thatch to get any thicker than 15mm before it is corrected back to 5mm. A thin layer of thatch is useful for preserving soil moisture and preventing some weed seeds from germinating. The article, When And How To Scarify A Lawn, provides expert advice on this process.

When And How To Scarify (Dethatch) A Lawn

The best time to scarify a lawn is during autumn or spring. At this time the lawn is better able to handle the activity and it will create some aeration ahead of winter or channels for irrigation water ahead of summer. Scarifying is generally done every 2-3 years.

The steps to scarifying a lawn are as follows:

(a) Apply fertiliser for established lawns four weeks before scarifying is planned. We do this to kill the moss and get the lawn growing strongly to better handle the scarifying process.

(b) Progressively mow the lawn shorter and shorter three weeks before scarifying to make the process easier and help minimize the shock to the lawn plants.

(c) Using a manual wheeled scarifier or a petrol-powered one (both available from Hire Centres), run over your lawn in one direction to remove around one centimetre of thatch. The debris can be removed with a leaf blower or rake.

(d) Run the scarifyer across the area on the opposite angle to the first pass. This time, lower the blades slightly. After 2-3 passes the right amount of thatch should have been removed. The objective is to leave about 5mm of thatch.

The lawn can look “shocked and thin” after scarifying. This is normal and it will recover. The Plant Company recommends watering the lawn each day for the next 3-5 days to help it recover and reduce the chances of it drying out. See the article, How To Revive A Lawn After Dethatching, for next steps in the process.

When To Roll A New Lawn

A new lawn or over-sown lawn is not rolled before the lawn seedlings have germinated and grown for at least 4-5 weeks. If the lawn is rolled before this time, it can become too compacted for any slower germinating seed to strike.

To roll a lawn effectively, the lawn and soil need to be damp (not sodden) as the soil needs to be somewhat pliable to move under the roller. A water filled lawn roller is best tool for rolling as they require less effort than the concrete rollers and you can control how much compaction is being applied. Start by just quarter filling the roller with water and work that across the lawn at least twice. Keep adding more water to the roller and repeating this until the job is done. Be sure to go across the lawn on a host of different directions. Please note, if there are major hollows or high spots, rolling will help but not solve these. You are better to add soil and seed these well before rolling. Also note, over-compacting a lawn can be detrimental to its growth and performance.

Preparation is the key to renovating or establishing a lawn. The articles, How To Get A Lawn Level and Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, provide sound advice.

Lawn Fungus, Brown Spots, And Disease Control

Seeing a fungus or brown spot in a lawn is never a pleasant experience. In fact, seeing any issues in a lawn that you’ve taken a lot of pride in growing can be frustrating, particularly if you don’t know what to do. The Plant Company has prepared a few short articles to help you identify the problem easily and take the correct steps to control it.

Brown Patch Control In Lawns

Brown Patch is a relatively common disease in lawns during summer. It becomes particularly prevalent with warm and humid weather, on poorly drained sites, and with turf that has a high level of thatch. It is commonly observed in Browntop or Fine Fescue lawns and less so in ryegrass lawns. This disease presents as irregular or circular patches where the foliage shows purple tones before turning light brown. Sometimes the turf at the centre of the ring will recover to give a ring of diseased lawn at the exterior.

Control is easy with products such as LawnPro Fungus Control at the first sign of Brown Patch. It can be used preventatively if you think this disease could be an issue and is often mixed in with Turfix. Addressing drainage issues and dethatching the lawn will also be important for longer term control. For information on these subjects, refer the articles, When And How To Scarify A Lawn and Fixing Poor Drainage In A Lawn.

Crown Rust Control In Lawns

Crown Rust affects both ryegrass lawns and Kentucky Bluegrass lawns. The affected grass appears rust coloured, and this is usually seen from early summer to late autumn. This disease can become more prevalent during humid weather and is often seen on low fertility soils.

Control is achieved by applying [established lawn fertiliser] generously and watering this into the soil or applying just before rain. LawnPro Fungus Control can also be used and is often mixed in with Turfix to control broadleaf weeds.

Dollar Spot Control In Lawns

Dollar Spot affects all grass species and is particularly prevalent north of Waikato. Following extended wet periods, small bleached spots may appear on the leaves. They may coalesce to form larger patches ranging in size from 5-50mm. The plants will generally recover quickly and the disease is more cosmetic than anything significant.

Dollar Spot tends to be more prevalent with a rain event during a drought, in lawns with a dense thatch, lawns grown on heavily compacted soils, and on soils with a high pH and low fertility. Use Fertiliser for established lawns generously and water this into the soil or apply just before rain. LawnPro Fungus Control can also be used and is often mixed in with Turfix to control broadleaf weeds. Addressing drainage issues and dethatching the lawn will also be important for longer term control. For information on these subjects, refer the articles, When And How To Scarify A Lawn and Fixing Poor Drainage In A Lawn.

Fairy Rings Control In Lawns

Fairy Rings is a lawn disease which is obvious by the rounded areas of stimulated turf growth. These will often be accompanied by mushrooms or fruiting bodies in the second stage of infestation. It is most commonly observed in summer on older, established lawns with a thick thatch where fertiliser regimes have been poor or non-existent.

Fusarium Control In Lawns

Fusarium affects grasses during periods of cool and humid weather in late autumn. It is seen as rapidly developing patches about 25-50 mm in size, and the leaves becoming brown and mushy. Light brown blotched often appear on the tips of leaves. Established lawns with large amounts of thatch tend to be more susceptible.

Use Fertiliser for established lawns generously and water this into the soil or apply just before rain to address this issue. Dethatching will also assist in the longer term. Fungicides such as LawnPro Fungus Control offer some control and can also be used with Turfix. Please see the article When And How To Scarify A Lawn for advice on dethatching.

Leaf Spot On Ryegrass Control In Lawns

Leaf Spot can affect all lawn species and appears as browning of the leaf following by thinning of the sward. Lawns that are mown very low tend to be more susceptible, particularly during drought conditions.

Fungicides such as LawnPro Fungus Control offer good control and are often mixed in with Turfix to achieve weed control at the same time.

Melting Out Control In Lawns

Melting Out is a disease that can affect all grass species, but is more often seen when lawns are cut very low and when high rates of nitrogen fertiliser are used. The fungi cause small, brown spots on the leaves which expand to produce dark purple-red lesions. The spots enlarge until the entire width of the leaf blade is affected.

Fungicides such as LawnPro Fungus Control offer good control and are often mixed in with Turfix to achieve weed control at the same time. It will be important to reduce the amount of nitrogen being applied also.

Red Thread Control In Lawns

Red Thread is generally noticed as brown patches appearing in the lawn. Upon closer inspection, the characteristic red threads of mycelium (part of the fungus) will be apparent. It generally affects ryegrass and fine fescue lawns, but is seen in other lawn species on occasion. Soils with low nitrogen levels make plants particularly susceptible to this disease.

Use [established lawn fertiliser] generously and water this into the soil or apply just before rain to address this issue. Fungicides such as LawnPro Fungus Control offer good control and are often mixed in with Turfix to achieve weed control at the same time. A repeat application of the fungicide is generally required.

Slime Mould Control In Lawns

Slime Mould is often seen in winter when cool and wet conditions favour the fruiting bodies to form. The fruiting bodies are most commonly grey-purple-brown or white. This situation is only temporary and will disappear when conditions warm. No treatment is recommended.

Yellow Tuft Control In Lawns

Yellow Tuft is a disease that causes plants to develop yellow leaves and generally this occurs in patches. The yellow tufts pull away from the soil or main crown easily. The fungus attacks the root system, causing it to weaken and release the plant parts. It is most commonly a problem in poorly drained soils and is best fixed by addressing the drainage issues. Over-watering can also have a similar impact on the lawn. Fungicides do little to control this disease.

Lawn Pests, Grass Grubs, And Control

Occasionally pests will present as uninvited guests in a lawn. The key is to understand what pest is causing the damage and how to control them. Often it will be grass grubs feeding on the roots, hence you need to know what to look for. Our articles provide expert advice so you can correctly identify the problem and solution.

Argentine Stem Weevil Control In Lawns

Argentine Stem Weevils are a pest mainly in ryegrass lawns. The larvae live and feed inside the grass stem, while the adults feed on the leaves. A tell-tale sign of this pest are the windows chewed into the leaves and plants appearing wilted during spring and summer, even when the soil has plenty of moisture.

Argentine Stem Weevils are distinguishable from beetles by their long snouts and their legless larvae. Adults are about 5-10mm long and grey-brown in colour. The larvae are cream coloured.

Control of this pest requires an experienced turf expert in your area given the nature of the insecticide to be used. They will typically use a product called Spinner.

Black Beetle Control In Lawns

The Black Beetle is generally found north of Waikato. The adult beetle is black and glossy, about 15mm long, and has a sturdy appearance. The adults burrow into the soil and often consume the grass roots. The cream-coloured larvae have a black head and abdomen, and also feed on roots from spring through until autumn. As these insects feed, they weaken the plant, which then slowly starts to wilt and desiccate. On hot days you will see patches of wilted plants which will look odd. If plants are not watered, they will die.

Control is very easy and comes in two forms. For only a small area, you can cultivate the area to expose the bugs. Birds will deal to them very quickly. The alternative is to use LawnPro Protect during summer and autumn, or in spring as a preventative option.

Grass Grub Control In Lawns

Grass Grubs are the most significant pest in NZ lawns. Eggs are laid in the soil during summer which hatch after about two weeks. The small larvae then feed on the roots of grasses until spring, growing to 20-25 mm long in the process. They then turn into brown beetles that come out of the soil and will feast on other ornamental plants. The beetles tend to live for only a few weeks while they mate and lay eggs.

A common indicator of Grass Grubs are patches of yellow and dead lawn. Given the patch is very sick looking, you should confirm the pest is present by using a spade to cut out an area and then examine the soil. Look for the small, white larvae. There may be a few other things that could cause the grass to look this way, but Grass Grub is likely to be the main culprit.

Porina Control In Lawns

Caterpillars of Porina are a common lawn pest. They are grey-yellow, about 50-75mm long when mature, and emerge at night to feed on the grass leaves. The tunnels and lawn damage in autumn are obvious signs of Porina. Often a board will be laid on the ground overnight to spot the tunnels the next morning.

Sod Webworm Control In Lawns

Sod Webworm caterpillars live in the soil and emerge to eat the foliage of grass plants during autumn and winter. The caterpillars range from 10–20mm in length, and are generally green with dark green spots.

Control is very easy using LawnPro Protect during autumn.

Tasmanian Grass Grub Control In Lawns

Tasmanian Grass Grubs live in small burrows near the soil surface, and emerge to eat foliage near the tunnel entrance. The damage is normally caused from late autumn until early summer, with the adult beetles emerging during summer.

Control of this pest requires an experienced turf expert given the nature of the insecticide to be used. They will typically use a product called Acelypron and you are bound to find a local operator.

Lawn Seed Treatments – Bird Repellent And Fungicides

At The Plant Company we are often asked if the seed has any bird repellent on the seed, or whether it has been fungicide treated. While these are great questions, it’s important to understand what the impact of those have on the seed and whether there are better options. These articles shed light on these important subjects.

Should I Use Fungicide Treated Lawn Seed?

The Plant Company buys lawn seed that often has a fungicide treatment already included. Typically, the varieties that might encounter disease problems during germination will be treated along with any seed lines that could be considered in need of a fungicide. If there is no treatment on the seed, that simply means that the seed is unlikely to succumb to fungal issues while germinating. The Plant Company takes a prudent approach such that chemicals are only used when necessary.

Should I Use Lawn Seed Treated With Bird Repellent?

The question is often asked whether bird repellent should be added to or with lawn seed. The short answer is generally, no. When seed is treated with bird repellent it affects the germination of the seed, and the seed viability is near destroyed after just a few months from treatment. That is why The Plant Company elects not to treat seed with bird repellent.

The reality is that it would take a massive bird infestation to have any effect on a newly seeded lawn and that rarely happens. That said, birds will be more of an issue for an over-sown lawn or where the seed has not been mixed into the soil. The Plant Company still recommends not using a bird repellent but rather to offer the birds an alternative food source. Birds are only going for the lawn seed because it is an easy meal. By that logic, The Plant Company suggests giving them an easier meal by deliberately putting out seed each day or some slices of bread. This only needs to happen for 7-10 days while your lawn strikes.

Please note: The recommended sowing rates provided by The Plant Company for lawn seed include a 10% allowance for loss to birds. That loss rate is increased to 15% for rates recommended for over-sowing. Actual seed losses to birds are generally less than 5%.

Lawn Watering

Watering is essential to growing a perfect lawn. There are always questions about how often to water, when to water, and whether it is needed. Our series of articles sheds important light on these subjects so you can make informed decisions for irrigating your lawn or patch of grass.

Is Watering Your Lawn A Waste Of Water?

One of the keys to a lush and beautiful lawn free of weeds is watering during dry periods. If a lawn is not watered it will generally go dormant (i.e., die off) until it rains again. Unfortunately, while it is dormant, weeds will often start to appear, with clover, mallow, and paspalum being the more common. Therefore, keeping a lawn actively growing will not only reduce the weed burden but also produce an aesthetic and functional surface.

Is this a waste of water? The Plant Company thinks not, but that really depends on how limited that resource is for you and what the local council rules are. More often, homeowners are installing tanks to capture rainwater. This becomes a very good compromise for conserving water and ensuring your lawns don’t suffer during the drier months.

Lawn Watering Tips

Watering a lawn requires a thorough soaking rather than short bursts. Short bursts encourage the roots to remain near the soil surface rather than penetrating deeper into the soil. A deeper-rooted plant will be stronger and hardier than a shallow rooted one as it can access more nutrients and water. Shallow rooted plants also tend to be more susceptible to pest and disease issues.

The length of watering depends on your soil type but needs to be long enough so the water reaches 25-30 cm down the soil profile (generally 20-30 minutes). When watered this way, the lawn may only need to be watered every second or third day. On sandy soils, however, daily watering might be necessary.

Bear in mind that watering lawns during summer can be considered wasteful, particularly by neighbours and councils. The decision to water is therefore more than achieving the perfect lawn unfortunately. The Plant Company recommends watering any time between 8pm and 9am for water conservation purposes and subject to local authority rules.

Should I Use A Wetting Agent On My Lawn?

There are two times when you would use a wetting agent. The first is to reduce soil crusting that can occur on some soils. Please refer to the article, How To Stop Soil Crusting for specifics around using the product Transformer and when. The second reason is to help a soil retain moisture during dry periods. The wetting agent Bi-Agra acts to pull moisture into soil particles and therefore make it more accessible to plants. Such water would otherwise drain away. The effectiveness of such products is very much situation dependent and still requires water to be applied. These products are not a cure all for drought conditions but will certainly assist when water is limited.

Lawn Weed Control

Weeds occur in all lawns, no matter how well kept they are. The key is to not let them dominate over the grass you are wanting to grow and manage them appropriately. This series of short articles covers weed control in lawns and affords practical and expert advice to make the task(s) as easy as possible.

Controlling Broadleaf Weeds In Lawns

Broadleaf weeds such as Mallow, Plantain, and Onehunga weed to name just a few, are easily controlled using Turfix. This product is applied generally in spring, summer, and autumn to clean up broadleaf weeds before they become a problem. Be sure to read the label before using Turfix and avoid overlapping the spray areas as this can cause injury to the lawn, especially if you have made up a strong mix. Grass weeds require another set of attention and these are dealt with in separate articles.

Turfix is generally applied 2-3 days before the lawn is due to be mown. This ensures the weeds have as much leaf area as possible to take up the chemical. As the active ingredients in Turfix are residual, The Plant Company advises that the lawn clippings are sent to landfill for two mowings after application rather than being added to the compost bin or placed around desirable plants.

If there are only small areas of broadleaf weeds and you want to avoid using chemical, they can be levered out with a screwdriver. In this instance The Plant Company recommends adding more lawn seed to the areas disturbed so that the weeds have less opportunity to establish again.

If broadleaf weeds continue to persist after Turfix has been applied, use Banvine in the same manner as Turfix. The Plant Company does not recommend mixing Banvine and Turfix together during application.

Controlling Couch In A Lawn

The options to control Couch in a lawn depend on your lawn variety, the area of lawn to treat, and your level of patience. If the lawn is Fine Fescue, the job is easy as you can use the herbicide Ignite. It will kill other grass species but leave the Fine Fescue intact. Be certain that you have a Fine Fescue lawn or you will kill the entire lawn!

If the lawn is any other variety, and it is only a small area, you can lever out the plants using a screwdriver and pull up the strands. Alternatively, use an artist’s paintbrush to apply a small amount of glyphosate onto the leaves of the Couch. In this instance, let the lawn grow more than normal so the leaf blades are big and easy to paint. It only takes 24-hours for the glyphosate to move through the entire plant and render it dead, so the lawn can be mown the following day as normal. The Plant Company recommends adding Wetcit in with the Glyphosate to make it more effective. You may need to repeat this process several times for effective control as Couch can take some effort to eradicate. While both of these methods can be slow and cumbersome but they are the only way of preserving the remaining grass. The Plant Company recommends dropping a little bit more lawn seed where the Couch has been removed to take the space and reduce the chances of other weeds establishing.

For a large lawn or larger area that is riddled with Couch, you might be better to spray out the entire lawn with glyphosate mixed with Wetcit and start again. If this is the case, see the articles, Preparing The Lawn For Over-Sowing, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, and Selecting The Right Lawn Variety for sound advice on how to go about this.

Controlling Paspalum In A Lawn

The options to control Paspalum depend on your lawn variety, the area of lawn to treat, and your level of patience. If the lawn is Fine Fescue, the job is easy as you can use the herbicide Ignite. It will kill other grass species but leave the Fine Fescue intact. Be certain that you have a Fine Fescue lawn or you will kill the entire lawn!

If the lawn is any other variety, and it is only a small area, you can lever out the plants using a screwdriver. Alternatively, use an artist’s paintbrush to apply a small amount of glyphosate onto the leaves of the Paspalum. In this instance, let the lawn grow more than normal so the leaf blades are big and easy to paint. It only takes 24-hours for the glyphosate to move through the entire plant and render it dead, so the lawn can be mown the following day as normal. The Plant Company recommends adding Wetcit in with the Glyphosate to make it more effective on the target weed.

A further option for controlling Paspalum in small areas is to take a jug of boiling water and tip some onto the centre of the plant. That is very effective but will leave dead patches across the lawn. The Plant Company recommends dropping a little bit more lawn seed where the Paspalum has been removed or killed to take the space and reduce the chances of other weeds establishing.

For a large lawn or areas riddled with Paspalum, you might be better to spray out the entire lawn with glyphosate mixed with Wetcit and start again. If this is the case, see the articles, Preparing The Lawn For Over-Sowing, Preparing The Soil For A New Lawn, and Selecting The Right Lawn Variety for sound advice on how to go about this.

Lawns And Grass

Topics

How to Grow Grass From Seed

Growing A Fine Fescue Lawn

Fixing Poor Drainage In A Lawn

Growing A Kikuyu Lawn

Growing A Tall Fescue Lawn

Growing The Perfect Lawn

How Deep Do I Sow Lawn Seed?

How Do I Know If My Soil Is Too Compacted For Seed To Germinate?

How Long Before My Lawn Appears

How Much Lawn Seed Do I Need?

How To Fix Compaction In A Lawn

How To Get A Lawn Level?

How to Grow A Highly Aesthetic Lawn

How To Growing A Hard Wearing Lawn

How To Pimp My Lawn

How To Prepare The Site For Over-Sowing A Lawn

How To Prepare The Soil For Sowing A Lawn

How To Seed A Lawn

Lawn Plant Alternatives

Lawn Seed Quality

Selecting The Right Variety Of Lawn

Should I Over-Sow Or Work Up My Lawn For Planting?

Should I Use Ready Lawn Or Sow Seed?

When Is The Best Time To Sow A Lawn?

Birds And New Lawns!

Managing Birds In A Newly Sown Lawn

Fertiliser

Best Lawn Fertiliser In NZ – Products Used By The Professionals

Recommended Lawn Fertiliser Products

Is Over Fertilising A Lawn Possible?

Controlled Release Fertiliser For Lawns

Best Organic Fertiliser For A Lawn

Should I Put Lime On My Lawn?

How To Make A Lawn Greener?

Best Organic Fertiliser For A Lawn

Controlled Release Fertiliser For Lawns

How To Make A Lawn Greener?

Should I Put Lime On My Lawn?

What Fertiliser Should I Use On My Lawn?

Fixing Lawn Issues And Problems

How To Stop Soil Crusting

What To Do About Thin Patches In A Newly Seeded Lawn

Why Is My Lawn Not Growing?

Lawn Care, Maintenance, And Aeration

Aerating A Lawn

How Often To Mow A Lawn

How to Keep High-Traffic Areas in Your Lawn Looking Good

How To Level An Established Lawn

How To Revive A Lawn After Dethatching Or Scarifying

Lawn Maintenance In Autumn

Lawn Maintenance In Spring

Lawn Maintenance In Summer

Lawn Maintenance In Winter

Mowing A New Lawn

Repairing A Lawn

Rolling The New Lawn

What Is Thatch In A Lawn?

When And How To Scarify (Dethatch) A Lawn

When To Roll A New Lawn

Lawn Fungus, Brown Spots, And Disease Control

Brown Patch Control In Lawns

Crown Rust Control In Lawns

Dollar Spot Control In Lawns

Fairy Rings Control In Lawns

Fusarium Control In Lawns

Leaf Spot On Ryegrass Control In Lawns

Melting Out Control In Lawns

Red Thread Control In Lawns

Slime Mould Control In Lawns

Yellow Tuft Control In Lawns

Lawn Pests, Grass Grubs, And Control

Argentine Stem Weevil Control In Lawns

Black Beetle Control In Lawns

Grass Grub Control In Lawns

Porina Control In Lawns

Sod Webworm Control In Lawns

Tasmanian Grass Grub Control In Lawns

Lawn Seed Treatments – Bird Repellent And Fungicides