Hebe plants are treasured in New Zealand gardens for their attractive foliage, easy-care nature, and seasonal flower displays. Native to NZ and parts of the Southern Hemisphere, Hebes come in a wide variety of shapes and colours, making them a versatile choice for hedges, borders, and pots. This guide explains how to grow, care for, and maintain Hebe plants to ensure they thrive in your landscape.
Planting a Hebe and getting it to grow well is generally easy when you get a few of the basics right. This involves planting them in the right soil type, choosing the most ideal planting position, selecting the best variety, and ensuring the plants have the essentials to thrive. The Plant Company has the right advice in our series of articles on differing topics to ensure success when you are growing Hebes.
Hebes are very easy to grow, but you need to have the basics right. Choose a sunny or partial shade spot, and prepare the soil by adding compost or sheep pellets. Feeding your plants in spring with Native Plant Fertiliser will replenish nutrients and keep them fed for 12 months. They should also be watered regularly during dry periods to keep them flourishing. The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles that covers everything you need to know about growing Hebes.
Hebes can take moderate frosts once established, though very young plants should be protected until they are at least 15 cm tall. Frost Cloth is a good option for protecting vulnerable plants if you are worried. Be careful to harden off recently purchased plants if you intend to plant these during winter and frosts are likely. Do this by gradually exposing them to the cooler conditions over a 2-3 week period or until such time as you think that a frost won’t damage them. The Plant Company recommends holding off planting until spring if you are at all worried that new plants might get frosted. Generally speaking, a good sized Hebe planted in spring will cope with frosts the following winter.
Soils rich in fertility and organic matter that are well-drained will grow amazing Hebes. The soil should be well prepared with either compost or sheep pellets mixed in at planting or spread on the soil surface after planting. It is important that the soil being planted into won’t restrict root growth and for this reason, clay soils are not well suited to Hebe. Clay soils also tend to be very wet which will negatively impact the performance of the plant, and can ultimately result in plant death. Death in these instances usually occurs because the holes fill up with water which starves the roots of oxygen. This essentially drowns the plant.
Feeding your Hebe plants in spring with Native Plant Fertiliser will replenish nutrients and keep them fed for 12 months. Liberal amounts of organic fertiliser can also be used. Do ensure that plants are watered regularly during dry periods to keep them flourishing.
Hebes do not grow well on wet or heavy soils, including clay soils. In such circumstances, they are likely to die a slow death. In these environments the plants are likely to succumb to the root rot disease, Phytophthora. The article, Why Is My Hebe Dying? affords more information on this disease. You might find articles, How To Test If My Soil Is Poorly Drained and Fixing Poor Drainage On A Clay Soil useful.
Hebes can cope with coastal areas provided they are not covered in salt spray. Being constantly coated with sea spray results in leaf burning and ultimate death of the plant. Planting on the opposite side of the house to the beach is generally fine. If the soil is near pure sand, this will become problematic both from a watering and nutritional perspective. Our articles, How To Water Hebes and Best Fertiliser For Hebes, provide useful advice on these subjects.
If the soil is too saline, this can also prove detrimental to the plants and result in them becoming stunted and not performing. Nonetheless, if you elect to plant in this environment, The Plant Company recommends ensuring the soil is well prepared with organic matter such as compost and water regularly during dry periods.
Hebes generally grow well in partial shade and flower prolifically. However, in heavily shaded conditions they can become “stretched” as the branches extend to chase light, and internal leaves may yellow and fall off. In full sun they tend to be more compact with a greater depth of foliage, and prolific flowering. Please note that Hebes will grow well with just 4-5 hours of direct sun during the day, or with large amounts of dappled light.
A great variety of Hebe for heavily shaded areas is Hebe stricta.
Hebe look amazing when grown in pots, especially when managed correctly. The most popular varieties for this are Hebe Emerald Green, Hebe Heebie Jeebies, Hebe Strawberry Truffle, and Hebe Turkish Delight.
To grow a Hebe in a pot, choose a pot that is no less than twice the size of what the Hebe is currently growing in and that has plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the bottom of the pot to about 1/3 of the way up with potting mix. Do not use soil or compost when growing plants in a container and do not add fertiliser. The Plant Company potting mix has all the nutrients required to sustain the plant for the next 12 months.
Remove the plant from the container it is growing in by either pulling it free or by cutting the bag. We recommend cutting the bag or container, especially for larger grade plants, to minimise any chance of damaging the roots. If the roots have been growing in a circle or are all bound up you can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. Similarly, you don’t need to remove any of the growing media. The Plant Company does not recommend cutting the roots, even if the plant is root-bound as this offers no benefit. This is explained in our article, Managing Rootbound Plants. Add more potting mix and firm this around the plant using gentle pressure, then water well. They should be watered twice a week during hot weather and weekly or fortnightly during cooler periods.
The key to having an amazing Hebe in a pot is to both keep it fed correctly (see article Best Fertiliser For Hebe Grown In A Container) and not to over-water it. Over-watering is the most common reason Hebe fail. You may also find our article, How To Trim A Hebe useful.
The right conditions to grow Hebes are a well-drained soil, a full sun or partial-shade position, some shelter, and keeping them watered during dry periods. They are tolerant of frost once established.
The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread that on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring.
The Plant Company has produced a suite of articles covering almost everything there is to know about growing Hebes. We invite you to check them out.
Hebes owe their popularity to not just their attractive foliage and flowers, but also to their versatility. They make exceptional informal hedges for garden borders, or as fantastic inclusions in a mixed planting. The Plant Company often uses them as a foundation planting around a larger specimen tree. In this instance they serve as a ground cover and an accent for the tree. Suitable varieties for this purpose are Hebe Louis, Hebe Snowfall, and Hebe Lavender Spray.
The Plant Company also uses Hebes for pool gardens and in modern gardens. In particular, Hebe Emerald Green and Hebe Red Edge are popular choices here. Both these varieties suit the formality often required for such areas. “White” gardens also feature Hebes quite prominently. Hebe Snowfall or Hebe Snowdrift are typically used in these plantings.
Hebes can be included in most garden styles with ease and make for a fresh and exciting addition. Feel free to explore The Plant Company’s range of Hebe varieties to find the one(s) that suits your design needs!
Generally speaking, Hebe do not have invasive roots when compared to other species. However, if you plant it on top of soil drainage lines, the roots are probably going to grow into those lines eventually. If, on the other hand, you’re worried about it lifting concrete, we have not observed this occurring. The Plant Company therefore regards this plant as having non-invasive roots.
Hebes are generally regarded as being of medium vigour. A healthy Hebe should double in size each year until it reaches maturity. Be sure to start with strong and healthy plants at the outset as a sickly plant can take a lot of time to recover, and cause a hedge to become uneven. Our article, What To Consider When Buying A Hebe provides sound advice on this subject.
Hebe varieties differ in their mature heights. Some will grow to just 30 cm tall and others to 2 m! The Plant Company has put a lot of effort into determining how big each plant will grow in an unrestricted growing environment. Far too often we see people planting a garden too densely and then having to spend a lot of time trimming or removing plants later. This is something we want our customers to avoid and we therefore provide size information so the planning can be right from the start. Be sure to check out our Hebe varieties and the detailed information that accompanies both this, and our other plants.
Choose a full sun position for your Hebe. The hole should be dug to at least 50-75% deeper and wider than the container the plant is currently growing in. The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread Native Plant Fertiliser on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring.
The Plant Company has produced specific articles to help you grow amazing Hebes: How To Plant A Hebe, How To Trim A Hebe, Best Fertiliser For Hebes, When To Water Hebes, How To Mulch Around Hebes, and Hebe Issues And Troubleshooting.
Placing mulch around Hebes helps keep the soil moist and significantly reduces weeds. The Plant Company recommends an organic mulch is used as this breaks down over time to provide nutrients and improves the soil. It is also better for the environment than the plastic-based alternatives. Whatever type of mulch is used, it needs to be free draining so the soil can “breathe” and allow water to penetrate quickly and easily. Heavy rates of lawn clippings are therefore not a good option as they hold too much moisture. The Plant Company has three very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. The second is Earth Mat which is made from recycled paper. Both of these break down to become part of the soil within two years. The third is black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. Whichever mulch is used, The Plant Company recommends stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top for aesthetic purposes.
Compost is not considered an effective mulch as weeds germinate easily and it is only short lasting. It is, however, a very good method of adding organic matter to the soil and should be applied before the mulch is put down.
Choose a full sun or partial shade position with good drainage for your Hebe. The hole should be dug to at least 50-75% deeper and wider than the container the plant is currently growing in. A planting spade makes the hole digging a lot easier. The Plant Company recommends incorporating compost or sheep pellets into the soil to provide additional organic material, but this is not essential. Do not put fertiliser in the bottom of the hole, rather spread that on the soil surface after planting, and preferably do this when the plant is actively growing in spring.
Remove the plant from the container it is growing in by either pulling it free or by cutting the bag. We recommend cutting the bag or container, especially for larger grade plants, to minimise any chance of damaging the roots. If the roots have been growing in a circle or are all bound up you can tease them apart if you want but this is not essential. Similarly, you don’t need to remove any of the growing media. The Plant Company does not recommend cutting the roots, even if the plant is root-bound as this offers no benefit. This is explained in our article, Managing Rootbound Plants.
Now place the plant in the hole and make sure it is level with the soil surface before filling in around it. If it is above the soil surface, dig more out. If it is below, put in more soil and retest the level. Once the plant is set level with the soil surface, add more soil gradually and firm it around the plant using gentle pressure as you go. Scatter Native Plant Fertiliser across the soil surface after planting and the give the plant a good watering.
A wide range of plants can be grown with Hebes. The Plant Company often recommends using other plant colours and textures to add variety and interest. Such plants include Lomandra White Sands, Astelia, Phormium Platts Black, and Rosemary. Different flower colours can be introduced with Gardenias, Westringias, and Camellias.
The most popular variety of Hebe is Hebe Wiri Mist and is closely followed by Hebe Red Edge. Both varieties have great aesthetics, a relatively compact growth habit, and tolerate a wide range of soils and environmental conditions. The Plant Company has a range of Hebe varieties and we invite you to check them out. We have taken great care to provide detailed information with each of them.
Only potting mix should be used when Hebes are grown in a container. Often people will try and cut corners and use soil or mixes that contain both soil and potting mix with poor results. The same applies to when plants are potted up with compost as it holds too much moisture. Soil also contains weeds and tends to become compacted in a container, hence why it is not used in this manner. The Plant Company has nursery grade potting media which is pre-loaded with the correct amounts of fertiliser and micro-nutrients to keep the plant sustained with nutrition and actively growing for the next 12-months. After 12-months, simply add a couple fertiliser tablets to keep the plant fed for the next 12-months.
Hebe stricta is the quickest growing Hebe. This variety is commonly known as Koromiko and has a large and sprawling growth habit. It usually grows as an understory plant in forests and will reach 2m tall and about 1.5 m wide. The Plant Company has a range of Hebe varieties and we invite you to check them out. We have taken great care to provide detailed information with each of them.
Hebes are best planted any time from mid-autumn until late spring. During this time, they can cope with the stresses associated with planting (root damage mainly) more easily than if they have to also cope with heat and moisture stress as well. They can be planted in summer provided they are well-watered and the roots have plenty of growing media attached when planted. If watering is a challenge, The Plant Company advises planting any time from late-autumn through until early-spring. Make sure you have a good planting spade to make this job a lot easier.
A full sun or partial shade position with good drainage and shelter is essential for getting the best results with Hebe. In heavily shaded conditions they can become “stretched” as the branches extend to chase light, and internal leaves may yellow and fall off. In full sun they tend to be more compact with a greater depth of foliage and better flowering. The planting position should also be moderately sheltered which will help with establishment and the overall plant shape.
Hebe care is about making sure the plants are thriving. Our plant care articles provide the necessary details to give you the greatest chance of success. Afterall, there is nothing worse than putting the effort into planting for them to fail. Therefore, follow our advice and give yourself the best chance of success!
Caring for a Hebe hedge has several key elements to ensure the hedge grows healthily and looks amazing. The most important part starts with planting, and our article, How To Plant A Hebe, provides sound advice on how to do this properly. So, let’s now assume your plant is growing well and you want to keep it that way!
Weed control is vital. Therefore, mulch should be applied at outlined in our article, How To Mulch Around Hebes. Hand weeding is also effective if you have the time.
Fertiliser is also essential. Too often The Plant Company sees Hebe hedges that are weak and looking sparse because the plants are short on nutrition. Our article, Fertiliser For Hebes, provides advice on the best way to go about this task.
Trimming the hedge during early spring and late summer is key to achieving a dense hedge. Our articles under Trimming And Hedging Hebes, provide great insight into how to grow amazing hedges.
Finally, the plants should be checked for pest or disease issues during spring, summer, and autumn. If anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Hebe Issues And Troubleshooting.
The most important part starts with planting, and our article, How To Plant A Hebe, provides sound advice on how to do this properly. So, let’s now assume your plant is growing well and you want to keep it that way!
Winter is the perfect time for mulching around your plants. Organic matter such as compost or sheep pellets should be spread liberally around the plants and then overlaid with mulch. The Plant Company has three very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. The second is Earth Mat which is made from recycled paper. Both of these break down to become part of the soil within two years. The third is black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. Whichever mulch is used, The Plant Company recommend stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top for aesthetic purposes. The Plant Company does not recommend adding fertiliser during winter as this is better applied in spring so less is wasted. However, adding organic matter such as compost is quite okay.
Spring is the perfect time for fertilising the plants as they start to bounce into life. The Plant Company has fertilisers which have been specially blended for different plants and in this instance, our Native Plant Fertiliser will give them the correct boost and keep them fed for 12-months. A suitable alternative is our organic fertiliser which will also keep them well fed but they will require a secondary application in autumn.
Summer is when the plants need regular watering and this should be undertaken every second day on the hottest days. Plants that are establishing need particular attention as their root system will not have penetrated deep enough to secure consistent moisture yet.
Caring for Hebes in autumn is about keeping the plants healthy. Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken during spring, summer, and autumn if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have already been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser won’t hurt.
Plants should be checked for pest or disease issues during spring, summer, and autumn. If anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Hebe Issues And Troubleshooting.
Caring for Hebes in autumn is all about weed control and keeping the plants healthy. Keeping the weeds down around the plant and removing poor looking leaves will help keep the plants tidy.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have previously been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong which will aid the plant immensely as it shoots new growth in spring. You can apply Native Plant Fertiliser but this should only be done it if can be watered in well.
Finally, monitor for pests and diseases, and if anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Hebe Issues And Troubleshooting.
Spring is the perfect time for fertilising and mulching around Hebes as they start to bounce into life. The Plant Company has fertilisers which have been specially blended for different plants and in this instance, our Native Plant Fertiliser will give them the correct boost and keep them fed for 12-months. A suitable alternative is our organic fertiliser which will also keep them well fed but they will require a secondary application in autumn.
Organic matter such as compost or sheep pellets should be spread liberally around the plants and then overlaid with a mulch (if not done already) during winter or spring. The Plant Company recommends an organic mulch is used as this breaks down over time to provide nutrients and improves the soil. The Plant Company has three very good options for mulch. The first is coco fibre matting which is made from the husks of coconuts. The second is Earth Mat which is made from recycled paper. Both of these break down to become part of the soil within two years. The third is black plastic matting which will last 20 years or more. Whichever mulch is used, The Plant Company recommend stones, bark chip, or other similar products be spread over top for aesthetic purposes.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have already been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser won’t hurt. If anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Hebe Issues And Troubleshooting.
Summer is when Hebes need regular watering and this should be undertaken every second or third day on the hottest days. Plants that are establishing need particular attention as their root system will not have penetrated deep enough to secure consistent moisture yet.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have previously been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and encourages more foliage as the nutrition is right where the plant needs it. Please note: The Plant Company does not recommend using solid fertilisers at this time of year unless plenty of water can be applied.
The other required activities for Hebes during summer are weed control and monitoring for pests and diseases. Keeping the weeds down around the plant will produce a better plant overall. If anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Hebe Issues And Troubleshooting.
Caring for Hebes in winter is all about weed control and keeping the plants healthy. Keeping the weeds down around the plant and removing poorly stems will help keep the plants tidy.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if solid fertiliser and/or good amounts of organic matter have previously been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong which will aid the plant immensely as it shoots new growth in spring. You can apply Native Plant Fertiliser but this should only be done it if can be watered in well and is best held off until spring.
Finally, monitor for pests and diseases, and if anything is looking a little bit unusual, refer to our articles under Hebe Issues And Troubleshooting.
Growing a Hebe hedge takes some thought and planning to ensure you get what you are after. Factors such as the plant spacing, desired height, and variety are all important considerations. The Plant Company have produced this series of articles to provide advice for trimming a Hebe hedge and pruning individual plants so you can manicure them with confidence and success.
The right Hebe variety can be clipped into a hedge. Hebe speciosa Blue, Hebe Waireka, and Hebe Wairau Beauty are commonly clipped into a hedge. There are also other varieties that can be used for hedging and The Plant Company invites you to check out our Hebe varieties.
The articles, How To Grow A Hebe Hedge, How To Trim A Hebe Hedge, and How Hard Can I Prune A Hebe?, provide further information.
Hebes make amazing hedges (both formal and informal) and to create an outstanding formal hedge, The Plant Company recommends spacing them at 40-45 cm apart. The faster you want the hedge to fill in, the closer they should be planted is the general rule. With this planting regime they will close in quickly and also push each other upwards as they compete for light. The result is a fabulous hedge every time.
You can go out to 50-60 cm if the budget is tight but that will often result in a gap at the bottom between plants which is hard to fill. The gap results from the natural vase shape with which these plants grow. If the budget is tight, opt for smaller grade sizes and plant more of them rather than going with bigger plants as this will make the money go further and produce a better result in the longer term.
If 25L grades (or bigger) are purchased which are 1m tall and lush, you can space these 75 cm apart without issue. These grades have generally been manicured to ensure they are bushy to the base and will therefore branch and fill in more easily.
Hebes will generally sprout when cut right back, even up to 10-15 cm above ground level. However, this relies on the plant having heathy shoots at the outset and is a good way to bring a plant back under control. This activity is best undertaken during spring or summer using secateurs or a pruning saw. Please note: Hebe grown in shade environments may struggle to re-establish when cut back severely. Similarly, those growing sub-optimally due to disease or nutritional issues may also struggle to regrow. The Plant Company does not recommend cutting plants any lower than 15 cm above ground level to ensure a better chance of success with this procedure.
Hebes make amazing hedges (both formal and informal) and to create an outstanding trimmed hedge, The Plant Company recommends spacing them at 40-45 cm apart. The faster you want the hedge to fill in, the closer they should be planted is the general rule. With this planting regime they will close in quickly and also push each other upwards as they compete for light. The result is a fabulous hedge every time.
As the hedge is establishing, keep trimming the outer branches lightly. Removing the tips of the branches during this process encourages more branching and a denser hedge overall. It is essential while doing these light trimmings to keep in mind what width you want the hedge to be when fully grown. Given about 5-10 cm of growth will be removed at each trimming when it is fully grown, the light trimming needs to occur inside the maximum width of the hedge by about 10-15 cm. Only when the hedge thickens should it be taken out to its maximum width.
Trimming typically occurs in early spring and again in late summer with a little and often philosophy. Taking off too much will make the hedge look bare, but it will grow back. To get straight lines better than trimming by eye, you can use a string line after the initial cut is complete. When The Plant Company trims hedges, we will often do a light cut over, then stand back and look along the lines to determine the high points for removal. Good luck!
Hebes make amazing informal hedges (i.e., minimally trimmed) and to create an outstanding hedge, plants are usually spaced 1-1.5 m apart, though this depends on the variety. A wide spacing is chosen so the plants close in together but retain some of their natural shape. Plant them closer if you want the hedge to fill in quicker.
Variety selection is very important as not all varieties grow as tall and wide as each other. Check out our range of Hebe varieties to make sure you get the right one. The Plant Company has taken great care to provide accurate information and detail about how each one grows. The most popular varieties used for informal hedges are Hebe topiara, Hebe Wiri Mist, and Hebe Catherine. The hedge can be trimmed as little or as much as you want given it is the informality you are wanting.
Creating a Hebe topiary standard requires both patience and a straight, single-stemmed plant to start off with. The plant is staked to grow with a straight trunk to just past the mid-height of the topiary (i.e., ball). All the side branches are trimmed off to about 10 cm above the mid-point of the topiary. The top of the plant is cut off just above the mid-point of the ball to encourage sprouting just below the cut. As the new stems grow, they are routinely “tipped” (i.e., the top bud is pinched out) to encourage more shoots. All the time, the ball is progressively shaped until the desired size is achieved. This process can take three years (or more) to complete. If all this seems too hard or you don’t have the patience, contact us and we can generally supply your needs.
Trimming a Hebe hedge so it looks perfect is quite easily achieved with some attention to detail. It does, however, start at establishment if you want a truly awesome hedge.
As the hedge is establishing, keep trimming the outer branches lightly. Removing the tips of the branches during this process encourages more branching and a denser hedge overall. It is essential while doing these light trimmings to keep in mind what width you want the hedge to be when fully grown. Given about 5-10 cm of growth will be removed at each trimming when it is fully grown, the light trimming needs to occur inside the maximum width of the hedge by about 10-15 cm. Only when the hedge thickens should it be taken out to its maximum width.
Trimming typically occurs in early spring and again in late summer with a little and often philosophy. Taking off too much will make the hedge look bare, but it will grow back. To get straight lines better than trimming by eye, you can use a string line after the initial cut is complete. When The Plant Company trims hedges, we will often do a light cut over, then stand back and look along the lines to determine the high points for removal. Good luck!
Hebes are trimmed to remove excess foliage and to shape the plant. This is best done during early spring, late summer, or both. You can be as gentle or aggressive as you like when trimming. A mistake often made is to trim the plants hard enough. This error generally results in a woodier plant and a much larger plant that can be difficult to contain. Hebes are very forgiving plants and even if you get the trimming wrong, they will recover!
The Plant Company recommends trimming frequently (at least one per year) and cutting the plants back no further than where you can see leaves. If you remove all the foliage, the plant will need to sprout again from those stems to regrow. The Plant Company also recommends removing any dead or unsightly stems at this time. The cut stems can be painted with would paint, but this is optional.
The articles, How To Grow A Hebe Hedge, How To Trim A Hebe Hedge, and How Hard Can I Prune A Hebe?, provide further information.
Hebes can be trimmed at any time of the year, though early spring and late summer to early autumn are the times recommended by The Plant Company. At these times the plants will produce good amounts of fresh, new growth. Moreover, the growth in autumn will not be at risk from frost injury. You may want to check the flowering season for your Hebe as any trimming is likely to remove flower buds. On this basis, you may want to wait until flowering has finished before giving it a trim.
Light trimming to remove unsightly foliage can occur at any time of year.
Providing the best fertiliser for a Hebe plant is important to ensure it thrives and produces amazing flowers. The correct fertiliser depends on whether the plant is grown in a pot or in soil, and getting this wrong can be disastrous for your plants. Our articles provide the best advice about fertiliser for your Hebes so you can achieve the amazing results you desire.
Hebes grown in containers require different fertiliser to those grown outdoors in soil. In this instance the correct fertiliser to use is either container plant fertiliser or fertiliser tablets. Each of these will provide safe, sustained, and complete nutrition to the plant for the next 12-months. Using other types of fertilisers can be detrimental to the plant and may result in plant injury or death.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if container plant fertiliser or fertiliser tablets have been used. If you think the plant needs an extra boost or has some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and lush as the nutrition is right where the plant needs it.
Hebes require feeding to keep them growing optimally. The Plant Company’s native fertiliser has been blended to give plants the boost they need and then sustained nutrition for the next 12 months. We recommend the fertiliser is applied to the soil surface in spring just as the plants start to grow actively. More importantly, we advise that no fertiliser is placed in the hole at planting, but rather spread around the soil surface so it can wash through the roots as it releases. This fertiliser ensures that nutrients remain in the soil around the plant rather than being lost through the soil profile to where the plant cannot reach it. This also applies to plants grown on sandy soils. The Plant Company’s native fertiliser is therefore very environmentally friendly and longer lasting than most other products in the market.
Foliar feeding using a liquid fertiliser can be undertaken if you have time but this is not essential if Native Plant Fertiliser has been applied. If you think the plants need an extra boost or have some yellowing, however, a liquid fertiliser application won’t hurt. A great benefit of foliar feeding is that it helps keep the leaves strong and lush.
Hebes are showy plants that do require feeding to keep them looking amazing. A lot of articles have all sorts of advice on this subject which often requires multiple applications so you use more of their products. The Plant Company prefers to take a simpler and more environmentally responsible approach. We believe the best organic option is The Plant Company organic fertiliser which is applied in spring and again in autumn, and this will keep them well fed. You can safely apply generous amounts of this fertiliser without risk of injuring the plants. More details about this organic fertiliser are provided with the product.
The soil pH refers to how acid or alkaline the soil is. Hebes prefer a soil pH within the range of 6.5 to 7.5 which means they can tolerate both slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. As the pH of the soil moves away from this optimum range, the nutrients the plant is taking up (or not taking up) through the roots changes. If the shift in pH is too far, this can result in deficiencies of some nutrients and toxic levels of others. In either case this can cause the plant to become sick or even die a slow death.
The best way to know whether the pH is correct for your plant is to do a test. The Plant Company has pH test kits available that are easy to use and only take a few minutes to get a result. Preferably this test should be completed before planting so any pH issues can be corrected without risking the plant. A pH less 5.5 should have sparing amounts of dolomite lime applied along with Native Plant Fertiliser. A pH above 6.8 should have small amounts of soil acidifying fertiliser applied. In both instances the fertiliser should be thoroughly mixed into the soil before planting. A retest of the soil pH should be undertaken after four weeks and small adjustments made again. If the pH is in the optimum range, just use Native Plant Fertiliser thereafter.
Hebes are generally hardy and low-maintenance plants, but they can be susceptible to a few problems. This series of articles explains those problems and the solutions needed.
The main pest that affects Hebe is scale insect. These are usually at low levels that don’t warrant any action. However, high numbers can weaken the plant and cause discoloured foliage and a lack of vigour. Scale insects are easily controlled with a general insecticide. Please always read the label before using any agrichemical.
When Hebes are grown in wet soils or exposed to prolonged wet through over-watering, the disease, Phytophthora, can take hold. Phytophthora attacks the roots and causes the plant to eventually die. The tell-tale symptoms are yellowing of the leaves, drooping foliage even when the soil is wet, discolouring of the stems, and plant collapse. This can happen over several months during any season and progressively gets worse. This is all resulting from the root system being progressively weakened by the pathogen. Gardeners will often mistakenly think the plant needs more water. Unfortunately, adding water only accelerates the problem prolonged wetness was generally the cause in the first place.
Often the disease will start to show several weeks after a prolonged rain event. It can also occur when plants are regularly over-watered, or planted in soils that are poorly drained or that hold too much moisture (e.g., clay soils). Therefore, good drainage is essential and sites where drainage is poor should be avoided. The article, Fixing Poor Drainage On A Clay Soil gives good advice on how to correct drainage.
Treatment for Phytophthora can be a hit and miss exercise as there are no silver bullets. However, if picked up early, The Plant Company has experienced some success using Transformer. Transformer has fungicidal properties and when used as a soil drench 2-3 times, plants can sometimes recover. However, if the plant is too far gone, The Plant Company recommends removing the plant entirely, and using Transformer as a soil drench before putting in a new plant. Of course, the drainage or watering issues will need to be addressed so the problem does not manifest again.
Leaf yellowing in Hebes can result from over-watering, being grown in poor draining soil, Phytophthora, or fungal infection. See the article, Why Is My Hebe Dying? for specifics on these issues. Other common causes are too much shade, or the plants have not been fed for a number of years. A liquid fertiliser can be used to correct issues quickly and should be supported with Native Plant Fertiliser during spring if you think this is the cause.
On dense bushes the internal leaves will often yellow before being shed. This is due to a lack of light and is normal. On the other hand, when plants that have been grown in the shade or very low light conditions, then suddenly exposed to full sun, they can become bleached. In this instance, the sun has damaged some of the leaf pigments. The good news is the plant will survive, but it will look terrible for a time.
High infestations of scale insects can cause leaf yellowing but this is often mottled and varied across the plant. The article, Hebe Pests, discusses these and their control.
Finally, with varieties such as Hebe Winter Gold, a degree of yellowing during winter is entirely normal and nothing to be concerned about.
There can be many reasons why a Hebe looks sick or is dying and it is often an iterative process to determine why. The most common reasons are presented below and organised from most likely to least likely based on The Plant Company's experience.
Plants drowning in clay or heavy soils is very common. This occurs when plants are put into clay soils with nowhere for the water to escape to. Consequently, when it rains the hole fills up with water and drowns the plant. Fixing Poor Drainage On A Clay Soil affords good advice on how to remedy this.
Root rot disease is a common issue. The leaves will wilt even when there is plenty of moisture in the soil or suddenly turn brown. The article, Phytophthora In Hebe elaborates further.
Fertiliser placed in the bottom of the hole at planting. Doing this can draw moisture away from the roots and cause root burning. The best solution here is to generously water the plant every day. See the article, Best Fertiliser For Hebes, for more information.
Wrong fertiliser or too much fertiliser applied. Killing plants with kindness is very common. The best solution here is to generously water the plant every day and flush the soil with water repeatedly. See the article, Best Fertiliser For Hebes, for more information.
Fungal diseases such as powdery and downey mildew can be a problem with Hebes and often presents as leaves with spots that are also yellowing. A copper fungicide will eliminate the disease.
Herbicide misadventure. Spraying too close with glyphosate is quite common and plant death is often imminent.
Plants have not been watered or watered too infrequently. See the articles on Watering Hebe, for more information.
Excessive shade – Hebes require good amounts of dappled light to grow well. If you think this is an issue, simply move the plant to a spot with better light. Do not move it into direct sunlight from heavy shade as this can also damage the plant. Rather, transition the plant to the brighter light by placing it is semi-shade for a week first.
The most likely reason your Hebe is dying is due to Phytophthora root rot. Healthy plants can start to wilt even though they have plenty of moisture in the soil. This issue is discussed in the article, Phytophthora In Hebe. If you think other issues are at play, refer to our article What Is Wrong With My Hebe?
A wilting Hebe will be caused by one of two reasons. The most obvious is that it needs water! However, if you know the soil has plenty of moisture, but is still wilting, there is a high probability it has root rot disease. When Hebe are grown in wet soils or exposed to prolonged wet through over-watering, the disease, Phytophthora, can take hold. Phytophthora attacks the roots and causes the plant to eventually die. The tell-tale symptoms are yellowing of the leaves, drooping foliage even when the soil is wet, discolouring of the stems, and plant collapse. This can happen over several months during any season and progressively gets worse. This is all resulting from the root system being progressively weakened by the pathogen. Gardeners will often mistakenly think the plant needs more water. Unfortunately, adding water only accelerates the problem prolonged wetness was generally the cause in the first place.
Often the disease will start to show several weeks after a prolonged rain event. It can also occur when plants are regularly over-watered, or planted in soils that are poorly drained or that hold too much moisture (e.g., clay soils). Therefore, good drainage is essential and sites where drainage is poor should be avoided. The article, Fixing Poor Drainage On A Clay Soil gives good advice on how to correct drainage.
Treatment for Phytophthora can be a hit and miss exercise as there are no silver bullets. However, if picked up early, The Plant Company has experienced some success using Transformer. Transformer has fungicidal properties and when used as a soil drench 2-3 times, plants can sometimes recover. However, if the plant is too far gone, The Plant Company recommends removing the plant entirely, and using Transformer as a soil drench before putting in a new plant. Of course, the drainage or watering issues will need to be addressed so the problem does not manifest again.
Hebe propagation is a relatively straightforward process when you have the right advice. They are easily rooted and our articles give you the best chance of doing this successfully and efficiently.
Hebes do not root well in water and are more likely to rot. There might be the odd success, but The Plant Company suggests don’t waste your time. Our article, How To Propagate Hebes will give you a lot better chance of success!
Hebes are propagated by cuttings. Semi-hardwood cuttings are usually taken from autumn until mid-spring. A stem about 10 cm long is trimmed into a cutting using secateurs with 2-3 leaves at the top, and is clipped just below a node at the base. The leaves can be cut in half to reduce transpiration losses which could cause the cutting to dry out. The cutting is dipped in rooting hormone, then inserted into propagation growing media. The tray of cuttings is placed under mist with bottom heat also applied. The cuttings will have taken root inside of four weeks as a general rule. The Plant Company generally applies a fungicide once per week while the cutting strikes.
Watering Hebes correctly is an important part of growing amazing plants. Importantly, making sure they get enough without being over-watered is paramount. Our articles provide the know-how on this subject.
Hebes require good levels of soil moisture to stay fresh and keep growing actively. They require watering both during establishment and during those dry periods. The Plant Company recommends a generous watering every second day during summer, or every third day if the soil is a bit heavier. If plants start to wilt, you need to water immediately. The Plant Company advises watering in the morning or in the evening for water conservation purposes.
If your Hebe is being grown in a pot, watering every second day during summer and once every week during winter is the general rule. This will depend on how hot the growing environment is and the size of the plant of course. A word of caution, over-watering is the most common cause of plant death with Hebes.
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